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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:02 am 
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Ah, that helps, but a sketch would be fantastic. I had read that slats can go vertical or horizontal, but wasn't sure what would be best. I assume that it will work equally well in the CR.

Any feedback on the drum riser question? I think the things I was talking about are called "U Boats" that you attach to the bottom of the framing beams (or joists in the video I saw).


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:34 am 
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go with a damped membrane - rigid insulation on the floor, 2x 13mm ply, 1x finish floor with a 1x3 (or around that) edge.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:43 am 
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OK, in terms of the resonators. I understand that they are to be sealed, but is it required to have wood backing, and wood on top and bottom if one builds them to the wall, floor to celling? One could ensure they are sealed with caulk — that is, I’m unclear why one can’t just seal to the existing wall, celling and floor as needed, without the addition of the wood backing and on top and bottom? I fear there is something I’m missing.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:08 pm 
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you can build a frame off the wall and seal it. just make sure the top and bottom slats are at least as large as the largest ones you use. no need to add top and bottom plates or back plate unless you are making them mobile or they only cover part of the wall.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:54 am 
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gullfo wrote:
... just make sure the top and bottom slats are at least as large as the largest ones you use.


What if I want to run the slats vertical, or angled? Is it best to have them horizontal when building them to the wall?

And thanks again Glenn!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:51 pm 
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vertical, horizontal, or even angled are all options.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 5:01 am 
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What is considered "top" and "bottom" if I run them vertical? The ends? (same for angled?) Sorry to be so slow, I'm just trying to get all the details in place.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 5:55 am 
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the ends on either side. the trick on angled one (assuming a vertical frame) would be to add a 1x layer inside the slats to create the necessary air cavity.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 12:38 am 
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In looking into this more, what are any advantages or disadvantages to using plywood, with various openings routed out? Example attached, can't recall where I found it (possibly Glenn's site). It seems like it would be easier and cheaper to build, and if using higher quality plywood could still look nice.


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angled%20slat%20box%20-%20small.skp [235.61 KiB]
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:18 am 
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diffusiveness, broadband (slight) etc. yes, they can look quite nice. check out Rivernile's excellent thread.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:00 am 
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Here are four unrelated questions:

1) After reviewing the thread by Rivernile, I still have one question -- when building the resonators as outlined in the design for my studio, do I place the 703 up close to the slats AND put r13 type insulation in the cavity, or just leave it? (There were also these hanging absorbers too, which I'm not sure I should use).

2) When examining other room treatments, it seems that I might benefit from the room "space coupler" design, but these are expensive, and I'm already getting over budget. My carpenter suggested he might be able to make them cheaper, but wanted to know if the wood material mattered (some are made from bamboo, for example). My sense is as long as the size, ration, etc., are the same, they would work well against the walls with window and sliding door with any type of wood.

3) I'm confused about how to deal with the wall between the mix and live room. Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? I should, instead, have two layers, of different size drywall (say 1/2 and 5/8) and NO clips/rc? Is that correct?

4) Finally, in trying to cut cost, I'm thinking of just drywalling, no clips or rc., in the mix room (excluding the wall adjacent to the live room). Is there an insulation method that functions as insulation but increases isolation? And if I had to choose between double drywall or single drywall and clips and hc, which would be better (it seems two layers on the external wall would be cheaper, but I want to see if there would be a big difference in isolation).

Thanks again -- getting closer to beginning the build as details are sorted out (it is amazing to me how complex and dynamic this is).


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 12:42 pm 
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"Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? "

Assuming you have a double framed wall assembly, you should not have clips or RC since the double framing introduces the decoupling that you are wanting to achieve.




What is a "space coupler"? I can suggest that you carpenter might well be able to replicate it, but how it serves the environment and adds no flanking will be in question.

If it is a flanking path, then it has to be removed.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:30 pm 
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xSpace wrote:
"Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? "

Assuming you have a double framed wall assembly, you should not have clips or RC since the double framing introduces the decoupling that you are wanting to achieve.


No, I learned that one from you on my first and only post to another thread ;)

It is an existing wall, only the framing around the new sliding door will be new. It is single frame. The plan is to have clips, HC, and two layers in the live room (1/2' though, to cut down on load to the celling, and cost). Single layer (5/8') in the mix room (this is a cost issue, and in choosing rooms to focus on isolating in this situation, seemed like the live room was a much better choice). But, it would not be much to add clips and rc to the mix room side of the wall between it and the live room, the wall with the sliding door, so the question is, can or should I use or not use clips and HC on both sides of this single framed wall?

xSpace wrote:
What is a "space coupler"? I can suggest that you carpenter might well be able to replicate it, but how it serves the environment and adds no flanking will be in question.

If it is a flanking path, then it has to be removed.


Sorry for not providing a link...the ones from auralex are bamboo...

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSSC22/

The question is, given that I will have glass on both sides of the live room, should I use these around the glass (window on one side, sliding door on the other). The plan is to place slats as Glenn outlined, and have absorption on the celling. But of course, these are expensive, so I thought one might be able to build them for far less. So, is this a good idea, and second, is it possible to build them cheaper?


Last edited by MJG on Sat Jul 09, 2011 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 1:03 am 
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I'm shopping for clips, best prices, etc. Came across these?

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax/index.aspx

I have to call to get a price, but they seem like a good choice.

Any suggestions for specific brand names or location of best price?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:32 am 
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the space coupler is used within your room(s) not between them... you hang them down from the ceiling with an absorber behind it, or stand off from a wall with an absorber behind it. the Kinetics Noise clips are good.

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