John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

it is good and interesting

I am also interested in adapting some of this. Are the slotted sides like or similar to retail store wall boards? Where do/would I get them without making them? Or! How do I make them? What wood and what router bit at what intervals? It doesn't seem like it would be that easy to make but just figured I'd ask anyway.

Also do you think this would be beneficial to adapt in my situation (on my thread) with the drop ceiling I have to work with and exterior cinder block and concrete basement foundation floor?

I think I'll just create some sketchups and post them and see what people think I guess.

Hi John,
I got a question about the sliding doors.
Is the glass in the sliding doors between each room 6mm or 12mm laminated glass? Or maybe 6mm toughen safety glass?
I'm keeping my eyes open for a set on ebay for my build....
Cheers
Damien

so long as they are different Damien.

Hi John.

Would the sketch/design also work if the size of the room is 5m x 10m?

All the best from the cold Norway...

Bad idea! 10 is a multiple of 5, so you'll have modes lining up all over the place. You should aim for a known good ratio, and stay away from known bad ones.

- Stuart -

Question:

If 12 inches equals .3048 meters do the modes get pushed up or down since we are talking about two different methodologies and the simple fact that 5 is 5 does not mean that 5 feet is a direct correlation to 5 meters.


I'm thinking the modes move down since a meter is longer than a foot.

An important footnote, I think

Regardless of how long an inch is, five METERS is still half of ten METERS (the dimensions given by the poster), meaning that the harmonics WILL line up exactly... (And if the ceiling happens to be 2.5 METERS high, then he has an even bigger problem with superimposed modes).

If I scale this down a touch it fits my dimensions exactly. Thanks a lot John!

That is very handy indeed. I would like to ask: the rockwool insulation and frames are only for sound treatment, not soundproofing, right? If I would like to design a studio inspired in your 3D file I I would have to consider soundproofing before, correct?
Thanks for sharing this
Cheers

Which frames and which insulation? Some of it is for room treatment, and some of it is part of the room isolation (MSM walls). Maybe you could point out which parts you are interested in knowing about.

I'd also suggest that you start reading through some of the build threads on this forum to become familiar with the concepts and the terminology. Some things about acoustics just aren't very intuitive, and it takes a while to get your head around them.

In general, yes. Isolation (soundproofing) comes first, and you design that based on the level of isolation that you need (after measuring what you have). Once you have that design in place, then you can design your basic treatment to go inside that room and provide the characteristics that you want. The final stage is usually to measure the room response after it is built, then design and install any remaining treatment that might still be needed.

- Stuart -

Thanks for your fast reply.
Essentially I guess my question is aimed at the irregular structures/cavities in the room and at the fact that John's walls seem covered with either slots or cloth. Soundproofing surfaces are usually covered with gypsum...
For instance, should I soundproof my ceiling with another ceiling and then add the structure shown in the file or should I soundproof the ceiling with another ceiling that has the shape showed on the file? Are the hangers placed after a soundproofing structure or against the bare walls? What about the speakers? I guess they have to be placed after soundproofing right?

Cheers

Hi John!

just wanna say WOW! nice designs. Can these two designs be applied to a 12' x 12' and a 12' x 16' room?

Peace!

Ron

PS- Sorry if I shouldn't have posted here.

can be applied wherever you want Ron

Hi John,
Another question about the glass doors.
I've found a set of doors on ebay. Without seeing them I'm assuming the glass will be the same. Are there any measures i can can take to make them work. Maybe putting a clear safety film on one set of the doors? Would that be enough? Or will the glass have to be replaced in one set?
And just out of interest...
If i found a set of double glazed sliding doors. Would that become a 4 leaf wall? And work against isolating the 2 rooms?

Cheers again
Damien