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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:53 am 
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A 4" single-leaf brick wall will give you probably 40-something dB of isolation, maybe a bit more if you are lucky.

You don't need rigid fiberglass for the insulation: Pretty much any fiberglass with a density of around 30 kg/m3 will work, or any mineral wool of around 50 kg/m3. Other open-cell or fibrous insulation might work too. Semi-rigid is the best, as it is easy to work with and has good acoustic properties, but almost any type of open cell insulation will work to some degree.

- Stuart -

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:31 am
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Location: London UK
thanks - I have started another thread as I don't want to hijack this one, Any input is impreciated ! - viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17521


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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Location: Norway
Thank you so much for sharing John!

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:21 pm 
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Location: South Africa
NIce sketch!
Interested to note that the control room is not symmetrical as i keep reading on this forum that symmetry is important in the mixing room environment?
Matt

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:39 pm 
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I'm not quite sure what you mean by "not symmetrical". The front half of the control room certainly is symmetrical, which is what matters.

- Stuart -

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:19 am 
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Hi Stuart - thanks for clearing that up _ I wasn't sure if the front walls were at the same splay angle and also how far back behind the mix position the symmetry had to continue. . .
Matt

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:10 am 
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Quote:
I wasn't sure if the front walls were at the same splay angle
I think it's a bit of an optical illusion, due to the strange angles overall, but they actually are the same angles.

Quote:
and also how far back behind the mix position the symmetry had to continue. . .
As far as possible! :) Realistically, as long as there is symmetry up to just past the mix position then things should be reasonably good, but 50% of the room is a better goal to aim for. Also, since this design has mostly absorption on the rear wall, that tends to improve things too.

- Stuart -

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Location: Norway
How do I make a Floor plan like John has done in this skp-file?

Ah.. Camera > Parallel projection :)

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:16 am 
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
These drawing are very cool, and generous. I have a question. Is it for the sake of simplicity that in both drawings the soffit bezel would appear to be mechanically coupled to the soffit framing? Is it OK to build the soffit like a big cabinet all the way around? Or is it just not detailed in the drawings that the bezel is decoupled?

Almost everything I have read in this forum favors decoupling.


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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:23 am 
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Is it OK to build the soffit like a big cabinet all the way around? Or is it just not detailed in the drawings that the bezel is decoupled?
It can go either way, actually. There's two schools of thought on this, but they both end up with the same result. The goal is this: prevent the speaker from transferring vibration to the baffle. You can do that either with the "brute force" method, which is basically to make the whole thing so massive and rigid that even an atomic bomb wouldn't make it vibrate, and the other is the "total isolation" method, which basically is to "float" the speaker such that there is no mechanical connection between speaker and baffle (or in other words, as you said: decouple it).

Either way, the baffle still has to be rigid and massive, so there's no difference there. The difference is in how you support the speaker. with the "decoupled" or "totally isolated" method, you use rubber to isolate the speaker from the box that keeps it in place, and personally I add a second layer of rubber to isolate that assembly from the rest of the soffit framing (sort of a "belt and braces" approach). In this case, you need to do the math to make sure that the rubber really is causing the speaker to float, because if it isn't floating, then you have the potential for numerous big problems. With this system, basically the speaker can move all it wants as it vibrates, but none of that is transferred to the structure

With the "brute force" approach, the speaker is mounted very rigidly, on a massive (heavy) frame, such that it cannot move. Some people use concrete blocks, other use sand-filled metal frames, bricks, or just massive wood. But even here it is advisable to keep the baffle and speaker separate, on different frames, if possible. John doesn't show that here, as this is just a simplified model, without all the details.

- Stuart -

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 3:16 pm 
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Excellent. Thank you much.

I am considering both builds carefully. Instinct tells me it will be isolation for my individual needs at this time. I remember reading about the rubber calculations in the last few days, just don't remember where. I have only been reading 3 things though; this forum, MHoA, the Genelec tutorial. So it will be in one of those places.

Current link for the Genelec flush mounting tutorial is http://www.genelec.com/learning-center/ ... -mounting/ . (There are some older links in the forums that no longer work.)

-Mark


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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 5:10 pm 
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Quote:
(There are some older links in the forums that no longer work.)
Thanks! If you do find links like that on the forum, then please let me know by PM where they are, and I'll try to fix them.


- Stuart -

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:25 am 
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Thanks a lot for sharing this with us!

I am planning to build three rooms like this, but I wonder if can alter the measurements. Like add 20% to all numbers. Or would I end up totally wrong?

Also, any suggestion where I could add a window in the CR to get light in, without ruining the acoustics?

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 3:04 pm 
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between the speakers Ketil

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 Post subject: Re: Small studio in 3D
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:03 am 
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Location: Oslo
Thanks a lot John! I will start a separate building thread when we start off.

:shot:

Any thoughts on increasing the size by adding percents?

I have read thru this thread, but havent found any tips regarding this.

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