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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 5:58 am 
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Posts: 44
Location: Surfleet, UK
Hi all,

After getting almost all my design together with lots of help from the forums, (Design thread here: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21057), I've actually started construction! 8)

So this thread will document my progress.

So I started with a concrete slab that I had laid in my garden at a time when I wanted to do a brick built studio. After working through my design and comparing costs though, I scrapped that plan and switched to timber frame. I also decided that the original slab just wasn't gonna cut it and wanted it bigger! :lol:

So my first job with the help of my father (semi-retired builder) has been to extend that slab.

I've dug and filled new foundations and today we finished blocking and bricking up to damp proof height.

Attachment:
foundations bricked to dpc.jpg


Next job is to back fill to ground level and fill the new area with hardcore, then insulation and membrane ready to pour the concrete. I've raised the height of the damp proof by about 50mm so we will pour a smooth new continuous layer of concrete over the existing concrete, for a nice level floor.

I also decided against the engineering bricks I used on the original slab as I'm going to be shot-firing the timber frame sole plates directly into the bricks, so switched to concrete bricks. I'll render from ground level to dpc height and paint it to make it look the same all around


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:40 am 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Hardcore filled and compacted, sand blinding added.
1000ga Waterproof membrane fitted.
Under concrete floor insulation added.

Attachment:
ready for concrete.jpg


Next jobs:
Clean original slab.
PVA surface.
Pour concrete into wall trenches.

Attachment:
Wall trench.jpg


Pour floor finish slab.

Then the slab is ready! 8)

Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:19 am 
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Updates!
Attachment:
20171114_123819_crop_1125x713-1113x705.jpg


Will update soon

Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 11:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:17 am
Posts: 10559
Location: Santiago, Chile
Progress! Maybe you should post the complete studio design, for double-checking, before getting too far along with the build...

Also, I noted the double sole plates: Unusual. Nothing wrong with that, for sure, but I'm wondering why. Is that a local code requirement?

I also noted that there's a gap in the double top plate over the doorway, which is unusual... I'm assuming that will be fixed shortly, with some type of oversize header?

- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:06 am 
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Hi Stuart,

Sorry I didn't see your reply!
The double sole plate is for practical construction reasons. Bolt the sole plate in place first all the way round, then build wall panels in sections on the floor, stand them up on top of the sole plates (drill holes to slot over the bolts) and just nail the bottom rail to the sole plate.

Yeah above the door I need to put a 150mm sistered double lintel, but I hadn't got that wood yet ha! It'll stand on cripple studs next to the door studs.

All of the walls are being increased in height slightly more as well to allow the inner leaf extra ceiling height. So I've done that today, but it's too dark to take a picture at the mo.

My plan is to add some sheathing tomorrow, so I'll take some pics then.

I'll post a design when I can.

Thanks,
Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 10:09 am 
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Location: Santiago, Chile
Quote:
The double sole plate is for practical construction reasons. Bolt the sole plate in place first all the way round, then build wall panels in sections on the floor, stand them up on top of the sole plates (drill holes to slot over the bolts) and just nail the bottom rail to the sole plate.
LIke I said, there's nothing wrong with doing it that way, except that it uses more materials than necessary. Many exterior walls are built the way you describe, but with only single sole plates: There's no real need to bolt down a second plate: Just build the wall flat, with the bolt holes already drilled in the sole plate, then either raise the framing into place over the bolts, or don't have bolts in the first place, and drill the holes in the slab after the framing is already standing.

But anyway, it's no big deal. The cost is just a few 2x6's

Quote:
Yeah above the door I need to put a 150mm sistered double lintel, but I hadn't got that wood yet ha! It'll stand on cripple studs next to the door studs.
:thu:



- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 3:26 am 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Hi all been slowly progressing with the build.

Have realised though that after fitting the cripple studs for the lintel above the exterior door I don't have enough width for much of a door lining. My door needs to be minimum 762mm (30") for a wheelchair and I can just about fit 18mm either side. The lining on it's own is obviously not enough to take the weight of my solid core door plus mdf sheet.

The opening is actually quite square (surprisingly so for a diyer I might say) with less than 5mm wider at the top.
So I was thinking of fixing the lining solidly to the cripple studs and then using long screws in the hinges to screw through both to keep the door secure. Then I'll plane the door down to fit the frame.

How does this sound?
Any other ideas?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
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Location: Surfleet, UK
After checking door measurements again I didn't have enough useable width with double seals etc. So I bit the bullet, cut out part of the wall and rebuilt it and fitted a new lintel. Now I have enough space for my door lining.

I've almost finished the outer door temporarily. It just needs planing slightly shorter. I'm going to add the seals when inner frame is finished and I'll do both together. The plan is to have a door to close to keep the weather out. Then I'm going to start on the sealing and plasterboard layer inside. All studs to be caulked on both sides against the inside of the osb. Then plasterboard will be screwed on to osb between the studs with 5mm gap all around which will be fitted with backerrod then caulked.

Slowly but surely Fen Studio will live!

Waka


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