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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 2:11 am 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
Posts: 132
Location: Surfleet, UK
Ok, so exterior sealing finished and battens fixed for cladding. Now I've turned my attention back inside.

I've caulked all of the ceiling OSB3 layer and I'm just running around inspecting the walls and caulking where it needs it.

Attachment:
Ceiling OSB layer caulked.jpg


I've got the ceiling plasterboard arriving Monday morning, so providing I can get a pair of hands to help me lift I should get started on layer 2.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 2:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:17 am
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Location: Santiago, Chile
Looks good! :thu:


- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Ceiling plasterboard layer 1 has begun!

Attachment:
boarding layer 1 plasterboard.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 5:18 am
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Location: Lichtenvoorde, Netherlands
More pictures :D !!

Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 5:05 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2018 4:37 am
Posts: 62
Location: Paris
Waka wrote:
Ceiling plasterboard layer 1 has begun!

Attachment:
boarding layer 1 plasterboard.jpg


Is the silencer going to be on the inside of the room? I don't understand why you couldn't have it inbetween the outer and inner leaf and just have the sleeve penetrate the inner leaf.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 5:37 am 
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Location: Surfleet, UK
buttermuffin wrote:
Is the silencer going to be on the inside of the room? I don't understand why you couldn't have it inbetween the outer and inner leaf and just have the sleeve penetrate the inner leaf.


There are two silencers for each airway. 2 for inlet, 2 for extract. My ceiling/roof design is 3 leaf as it allowed roof ventilation and was simpler to get building control approval. The photos above show my first silencers penetrating the middle leaf (the outer sealed leaf), the inner leaf will be an "inside out" design and be 200mm below the middle leaf. The middle leaf being attached to the roof joists with a slight incline (for water run-off) means this raises to 300mm at the highest point. I originally had designed for the inner leaf silencers to just about squeeze between the middle and inner leaves, but when fitting the outer leaf silencers I had to push them further into the room to be able to attach the fan and filter box, which pushes the inner silencer towards the lower end of the slope and has left me less than the minimum required 240mm gap between the leaves to squeeze the box in.
So a redesign is in the works to put the inner silencers beneath the inner ceiling between the joists (remember it's inside-out) which would still be above the soft ceiling and hidden.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 5:44 am 
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Ok so I've finished plasterboard layer 1 on my middle leaf (outer sealed leaf) and have started caulking it. I'm covering my silencers with a layer of plasterboard too whilst doing this.
Attachment:
plasterboard layer 1 complete and sealing begun.jpg

I have to wait for the caulk to dry before I can put the side pieces on to fully box them and the dropped ceiling bits in.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:08 am 
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Did some more studio today.
All sealed and ready for the next layer.

Attachment:
middle leaf layer 2 done.jpg


Attachment:
middle leaf layer 2_2.jpg


Walls almost all sealed ready for it's plasterboard layer. You'll notice above the noggins near the ceiling that the gap between the studs is quite tight, I'm struggling to caulk inside there.

The reason the noggins are there is because, when I was framing I forgot to account for the depth of the head and sole plates and my sheathing came up short. :oops:

I bought an extendable/adjustable sealant nozzle to try and reach in there, but because my caulk is in 900ml tubes they come with the nozzle built in and it can't be replaced by the adjustable one :x

I'm leaning towards getting a different sealant for these areas with a removable nozzle.

Any other ideas?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
Posts: 132
Location: Surfleet, UK
Ok after 2 weeks and redecorating our downstairs bathroom I finally got someone to help me fit the second ceiling plasterboard layer! :yahoo:

Attachment:
layer 2 begins.jpg


Attachment:
layer 2 up.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 6:00 am 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
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Location: Surfleet, UK
Hi all, just a little update. Ceiling middle leaf is all sealed, have started fixing the plasterboard between the studs of my exterior walls. I'm about 2/3 way through the large lower sections. I'll get some more pics but here's the start:

Attachment:
15mm.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2018 3:18 am
Posts: 13
Location: Cheshire, UK
Hi, how is this project going? Really interested as I'm about to start pretty much the same thing up in Cheshire, UK.

Your photos and updates are excellent. Hope it's going well.

John


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
Posts: 132
Location: Surfleet, UK
UKJohn wrote:
Hi, how is this project going? Really interested as I'm about to start pretty much the same thing up in Cheshire, UK.

Your photos and updates are excellent. Hope it's going well.

John


Hi John it's going slowly. I've had a busy September/October.

The plasterboard mass layer is finished between the studs. It's taking huge amounts of time to caulk around these boards (longer than even fitting the boards). If you can avoid having to put the plasterboard between the studs, by putting an additional weatherproof/structural board on the outside you will save incredible amounts of time. I chose to place the mass on the inside between the studs entirely based on cost. 15mm plasterboard is about £5.50 per 8x4 sheet whereas cement board 12mm or OSB3 18mm are both around £30.

Tl;dr
So if you have the budget, but less time/want it to go up quicker definitely go with an extra layer of exterior/structural boards for additional mass instead of between the studs.

I should be uploading some more pics this week.
Dan


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2018 3:18 am
Posts: 13
Location: Cheshire, UK
Hi Dan

Good to hear you're making progress and thanks for the tip.

I'm going to create a new thread for my project. I was going to convert my garage but decided - literally at the last minute - to ask my builder to make a new structure in my garden. My budget won't run to a brick build so I'm looking at timber.

I'm concerned at this point that for the outer layer he's talking only about pine cladding onto joists, membrane and then kingspan rigid insulation - no boarding - before the gap between this leaf and the inner room leaf. I feel this isn't enough mass. It sounds like you're saying the same. I see other people have used OSB sheets on the outside. Apologies if my naivety is showing here!

All the best
John


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
Posts: 132
Location: Surfleet, UK
UKJohn wrote:
Hi Dan

Good to hear you're making progress and thanks for the tip.

I'm going to create a new thread for my project. I was going to convert my garage but decided - literally at the last minute - to ask my builder to make a new structure in my garden. My budget won't run to a brick build so I'm looking at timber.

I'm concerned at this point that for the outer layer he's talking only about pine cladding onto joists, membrane and then kingspan rigid insulation - no boarding - before the gap between this leaf and the inner room leaf. I feel this isn't enough mass. It sounds like you're saying the same. I see other people have used OSB sheets on the outside. Apologies if my naivety is showing here!

All the best
John


Yep your cladding on the outside won't be sealed, so it won't provide much isolation at all (how much isolation do you need?). You can't just put a layer of osb underneath the cladding as the pine cladding needs a 50mm ventilation gap behind it. My cladding is going to be fixed to the 50mm battens screwed to the exterior sheathing allowing 50mm behind it for ventilation (yes this is a third leaf, albeit unsealed). You may want to ask the builder to quote for a cement boarded wall rendered and painted. This would be much better isolation. You could do 2 layers of cement board for better isolation on your outer leaf. Or you would almost certainly need to do similar to me for pine cladding (exterior osb boarded, 50mm battens, pine cladding, inner leaf plasterboard on completely decoupled inner framing), if you only need 40dB isolation ish you might get away with resilient bars for the inner leaf instead of additional framing.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:09 am 
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Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am
Posts: 132
Location: Surfleet, UK
Some more pics.

Finally got back to studio construction. Finished caulking the large lower sections. I've got to caulk around the top bits, and the sole plates, then I'm ready for insulation between the studs and my inner leaf framing.

Attachment:
finished caulking lower plasterboard.jpg

Attachment:
finished caulking lowers 2.jpg


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