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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2019 6:26 am 
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Here's my speaker framing and ventilation design. I'm not going to be isolating the speaker in my design, but instead going for very solid framing and a tight fitting speaker box.

Attachment:
Speaker Shelf and Ventilation.png


Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:59 am 
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Man, your craftsmanship is great. It looks gorgeous so far. Are you leaving the resonator wood exposed like that or are you going to paint it?

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2019 8:06 am 
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Gregwor wrote:
Man, your craftsmanship is great. It looks gorgeous so far. Are you leaving the resonator wood exposed like that or are you going to paint it?

Greg



Thanks man! That means a lot.
I'm considering what's the best way to finish it at the moment. I'm leaning towards sanding the exposed surfaces and staining/oiling them.

But I'll leave the finishing work til near the end.

Dan

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 2:11 am 
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Updates for you all:

I've been slowly doing some more in the studio.

I've now finished the speaker baffle (soffit) framing on both sides and and the baffle "wing" on the right side.

I've got one layer of 25mm mdf and a layer of 12mm hardwood ply to fit to the face of it. There will be a 600mm cloth faced gap at the base of the wing as a port for sound to enter and a 200mm gap at the top.

I'm considering another 150mm port just below the speaker shelf on top of the slot resonator currently, to expose the insulation around the speaker more to the room. :?: I'll think some more.

Let me know what you think guys!

Dan


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 4:08 am 
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Waka wrote:
Updates for you all:

I've been slowly doing some more in the studio.

I've now finished the speaker baffle (soffit) framing on both sides and and the baffle "wing" on the right side.

I've got one layer of 25mm mdf and a layer of 12mm hardwood ply to fit to the face of it. There will be a 600mm cloth faced gap at the base of the wing as a port for sound to enter and a 200mm gap at the top.

I'm considering another 150mm port just below the speaker shelf on top of the slot resonator currently, to expose the insulation around the speaker more to the room. :?: I'll think some more.

Let me know what you think guys!

Dan


It's looking really nice Dan, did you already upload a sketch of your ray tracing with this soffit design?

I am debating between a total hard flush, total soft flush with slats, or a design similar to yours which is half hard/soft.

In my mind, a total hard flush is the only one where you will get the full effect of the half space low end power boost since a proper hard flush would be a front wall which is completely sealed from floor to ceiling to side walls.

The other two options are really a variation on the same thing, a speaker mounted in treatment with some hard surfaces to reflect the upper mids and highs. The benefit being with a soft flush is that the space behind the monitors can be used for bass trapping and depending on the design near field monitors can be used more effectively with less comb filtering due to the low end being absorbed behind them... which is why you rarely see near fields in studios with proper hard flush front walls, though there are exceptions.

So what was your though process in deciding to go with this hybrid hard/soft flush and what are your opinions on the total hard flush and soft flush with slats?

Paul


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 6:52 pm 
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That looks professional as hell dude! Wow!

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 9:32 am 
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Yes, well done - that's the way to hold a speaker tight in soffit mount.
cheers
john

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 10:42 am 
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Paulus87 wrote:
did you already upload a sketch of your ray tracing with this soffit design?


I think I uploaded the raytrace on my design thread a while ago. I didn't change any of the angles since then. Ray tracing showed that any sound pasding under the baffle in the 600mm lower section soft section, should bounce below the mix position as it heads away, or be blocked by the desk.

Paulus87 wrote:
In my mind, a total hard flush is the only one where you will get the full effect of the half space low end power boost since a proper hard flush would be a front wall which is completely sealed from floor to ceiling to side walls


It's true that a hard flush mount is attempting to emulate an "infinite baffle", eliminating edge diffraction and compete half space projection of sound.

But in the end you can get a huge way there by simply increasing the size of the baffle. You just push the baffle step as low as you can. This reduction is edge diffraction and SBIR elimination are the key benefits of flush mounting speakers in my opinion. Low frequency boost is an added bonus in my eyes.
I would still flush mount my speakers even if there was no boost to the low end.

I chose to allow "soft" sections in the baffle, for speaker ventilation, and give the low/mid frequencies some access to that sweet, sweet fluffy absorption stuffed in the corner there :lol:

Gregwor wrote:
That looks professional as hell dude! Wow!


Always love the support man!

John Sayers wrote:
Yes, well done - that's the way to hold a speaker tight in soffit mount.
cheers
john


Thanks for the vote of confidence John!

I've got some more pics to come this week. :mrgreen:
Dan

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 1:01 pm 
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Dan,

Did you use clamps with the wood around your speaker and then glue/screw it or did you build the enclosure and then slide your speaker in? I'm mostly curious how hard it will be to remove the speaker if there is an issue with it.

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:42 pm 
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Greg - the box should be very tight so when you slide the speaker in you can hear the pressured air escaping.
It's the tight air that holds the speaker in even on an angle.


cheers
john

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 8:00 pm 
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Gregwor wrote:
Dan,

Did you use clamps with the wood around your speaker and then glue/screw it or did you build the enclosure and then slide your speaker in? I'm mostly curious how hard it will be to remove the speaker if there is an issue with it.

Greg


I actually did this a bit wrong. John's method of allowing a couple on mm all around so it can slide in and out (but with that air pressure holding it in) it's the best way. I cut mine a bit small so it is too tight. I would need to remove the baffle and loosen it to get it out :oops:

I'm considering the likelyhood of having to do this soon or not, and whether it's worth fixing the boxes. I would need to cut the side panels a bit taller. As they are tight on the top of the speakers atm. I might just leave em.

Dan

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