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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:09 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Thanks Kendale,

I am considering some changes in the studio, that being one of them. I am considering a 5.1 setup with them. I have thought about other monitors but I just trust the mackies so much. I know that Giles has had positive results with his too. Thanks for the feedback.

jdf


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:24 am 
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Location: Lansing, MI USA
How do you have the switches set on the back of your 824s?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:01 am 
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Aloha Kevin,

Quote:
How do you have the switches set on the back of your 824s?

I had asked another forum member (Bryan Giles) which settings he used and this was his reply:

Quote:
For space, A is selected. In the soffits it is like being in a corner and really loads up. At A all is well.

I run the HPF at Full (35Hz)

I adjusted the tweeter based on my room. That one might take a couple of tries. Do a mix and listen to it outside the studio. If it feels dark, turn the tweeter down (-2) Start at Zero. If it sounds bright, turn the tweeter to +2. Hope that helps, Bryan

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:37 am 
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Thank you! That is how I have my free standing 824s set right now. They are actually in a 1/2 space layout, with a large amount of broadband absorbers behind and above them.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:38 am 
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Aloha,

Quote:
Thank you! That is how I have my free standing 824s set right now. They are actually in a 1/2 space layout, with a large amount of broadband absorbers behind and above them.

I tried those settings prior to soffiting too, and the overall sound was still quite vague. But it wasn't until they were soffited and the front bezel installed that the sound dramatically changed, and then refined, with the absorbers to the left, right and above of the mix position.

There was a thread around here somewhere, maybe in the "Speaking of Speakers" forum that discussed how the bezels influenced the speakers performance, and a thread on a "free standing" bezel comcept.

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:09 am 
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I am now using a pair of B&W 602s rather than the Mackies. They aren't quite as hyped, and look like they will translate better. Also, they are less fatiguing.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 4:57 am 
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Back in November, kendale wrote:
Had a contractor stop by today to take a look at the work needed to be done installing additional floor joists. He said he check to see if he had an opening in his already backlogged schedule, the labor available, and would call in a couple of days with an estimate for materials & labor.

Aloha Kendale! Any update on this?

I just linked to your thread from eruss' "nailing sole plate to concrete floor" thread...

--Keith :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:36 am 
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Aloha,

Hey Keith, thanks for asking. (Funny thing, I am speaking to the contractor as I type.)

Okay, after our contractor's meeting with the original architect and sharing photos of the existing construction and with a former building inspector, the good news is that:

1- We do not need to apply for a building permit (and it's legal!) for the work needing to be done
2- The architect and contractor have established a remedy that with be about 1/3 the initial cost projection
3- The contractor will iron out the details on his end and can begin work Monday.

Looking back, all three contractors, all three building inspectors and the original architect have assessed and verified the integrity of our home and we now have a code-approved remedy for the flooring issues.

All that's left is mrs. kendale's earthquake-shake-residual-fears to be laid to rest after the mitigation.

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:46 am 
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Aloha,

Forgot to mention some of the steps we've taken so far:

- had a 2 shear walls added to tallest corner of house (12' post & pier construction)
- installed bolts in every post/pier & joist/girder straps

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 4:35 pm 
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Very cool, Kendale! :-D

So, fill us in: are these primarily proactive measures you are taking to protect you from future earthquakes? Or are you making structural repairs to damage caused by the last earthquake(s)? Maybe a bit of both?

--Keith :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:38 pm 
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Aloha,

The shear walls, strap bolts and joist bracings are mostly mitigation precautions against future quakes.

The damage that we need to address are the tile kitchen countertops which have buckled and are now detached from the cabinet frames.

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:45 pm 
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Time for granite slabs, eh? ;-)

--Keith :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 11:16 pm 
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Aloha,

Yeah, it'll be around $10k to do our kitchen on the initial quotes we got. :shock:

Ahhh, well, there goes the DAW + 42" monitor. :wink:

Aloha 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:21 am 
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Here's a less expensive alternative: concrete countertops! :twisted:

--Keith :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:30 am 
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Aloha,

Earthquake mitigation update:
- met with architect on proposed plan
- 2 more shear walls added to foundation (total of 3)
- 2 x 6 blocking added between each floor joist every 2 feet
- architect's stamp on blueprint modifications

The floors feel much more solid, cabinets dont rattle when walking by, and the house doesn't jump when those 25mph+ trade winds come blowing through. And best of all, Mrs kendale is feeling alot safer in her home! :D

Much mahalos to Jonathan Cook for all of his time meeting, planning and executing the work within budget. :wink:

On the studio side, have been considering a vocal booth build to use up the last two bags of rockwool, as well as starting the second cloud.

Aloha 8)

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