Realdoyle Build Thread

xaMdaM · **Posted:** Mon Dec 21, 2009 2:34 pm

Doyle,

My apologies for leavin' ya' hangin'. It's just been nuts here the last two weeks...

realdoyle wrote:

xaMdaM,
On another note, I'm trying to confirm the best order to do all of this. I talked to a studio contractor yesterday who said that I'd need to install the double-door last (after all the walls are completed). This does kind of make sense but I wanted to ask ya'll your thoughts.

The way I'm thinking of it is in this order:

1) foundation/framing (completed)
2) drywall between studs to add mass to 1st leaf
3) electrical
4) HVAC
5) RSIC-1 clips/hat channel install
6) 3 layers of drywall with Green Glue between each layer
7) install double door entry last?

I'm gonna go out on a bit of a limb here and tell you that whoever this "studio contractor" is... is leading you down a primrose path–at best, and a moron at the worst.

Here's the real order, and the order for your inspections...

-1) Permits
0) Foundation/Pre Slab Inspection
1) foundation construction
2) exterior framing and roof
3) drywall between studs to add mass to 1st leaf
4) framing of ALL interior walls & framing rough-in inspection
5) electrical & electrical rough-in
6) HVAC and HVAC rough-in
7) Insulation/penetration inspection

close up the walls
a) RSIC-1 clips/hat channel install
b) 3 layers of drywall with Green Glue between each layer
9) install double door entry
10) Final Electrical Inspection
11) Final HVAC Inspection
12) Trim/Finish work
13) Final Construction Inspection
14) Fire Marshal's inspection
15) Certificate of Occupancy issued
16) Low Voltage wiring
17) Acoustical treatments

xSpace · **Posted:** Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:07 am

Doyle,

Are you going to have electricity installed into this room?

realdoyle · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:56 pm

Sorry for the delayed reply. I was out of town for the holidays.

xaMdaM,

Thank you for that detailed reply. I am just not having very good luck with the "studio contractors" I am consulting. I've had 3 different people consult on this project and after posting their suggestion on this forum, I find that all 3 of them have given me suspect info.
Frustrating.

xSpace,
Yes, I am going to have electricity installed to this room. I have had a few electricians come out and quote the job. I've literally been showing them the diagram and chapter from Rod's book and telling them that I'd like an isolated ground system. I plan on having 2 outlets on each wall, and either recessed lighting or a track lighting system (so I don't have to cut holes into my ceiling thereby reducing the isolation efforts). I just wish track lighting didn't look so bad.
Why do you ask? Am I missing something?

Thanks again for your help,
-Doyle

realdoyle · **Posted:** Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:57 am

I have a question about installing the double door entry. It is highly suggested that, in order of construction, I install the doors last after the electrical, hvac and drywall. However, after the rains here in LA, I had a real tough time keeping the water out of my building while still being able to work on it. Eventually I had to tarp the doorway closed until it stopped raining.

My question: Would it be possible to install just the out side door now and then go back at the end and install the inner door, of the double door entry? If so, this would greatly protect all the work I've done on the inside from rain blowing in and ruining it all.

Perhaps the outside door could be on a separate frame from the inner door? This would actually be beneficial later on when installing the inner door on it's own frame, right? They would be isolated parallel door frames, eliminating any direct flanking paths within the door construction.

Of course, I'm sure I am missing something (that is why I am asking here first). I'd greatly appreciate your input on this idea and if it is not a good idea, then any other weather-proofing ideas would be welcome.

Thank you,
Doyle

John Sayers · **Posted:** Sun Jan 24, 2010 12:42 pm

No problem - put your outer door in - you've gotta seal from the rain.

the idea of adding them last is purely for the convenience of loading stuff in and out and not damaging them with scratches etc.

realdoyle · **Posted:** Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:52 am

Thank you John. I'm having my door guy come frame/install the outside door next week. A dry work place is a happy work place.

On another note...
A general question about backing rod: If I were installing 3 layers of drywall with Green Glue would I caulk and use backing rod for each layer of drywall or would I just do one final caulking with backing rod after all 3 layers of drywall are up? I'm mainly thinking about the bottom of the walls where it meets the floor (I know the corners need to be interlocked and caulked at each joint).

I'm trying to estimate how much and what size backing rod to buy. If I'm gonna buy a big spool I want to make sure I get the right stuff.

Thanks again,
-Doyle

realdoyle · **Posted:** Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:32 am

Nevermind on this last question... I found my answer here:
viewtopic.php?p=20003

Though I spent hours looking through forums trying to find an example of an hvac and fresh air system that would work for my single-room (with no attic space) studio. Even in the stickys "Shed to Studio" that build has an attic that they utilized.

I had a previous post I did about this but I'm stuck: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13821

I see little ideas that might work but nothing that really takes me through the process of building the silencers, installation, etc. Has anyone stumbled upon a good thread for this?

Thanks,
-Josh

realdoyle · **Posted:** Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:56 am

I'm not there yet, but I found this youtube video that goes through step-by-step on how to install hat channel and isolation clips. Thought I'd share: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf5syq09qa0

realdoyle · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:28 am

Hi all,
So I took a little more time to research my build and then research some more. I'm finally starting to put nail to wood now. I built my silencer boxes and got my drywall shipment in. I'm going to put a Fantech FG6 inline fan http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?p=fantech_fg6&product=137122&category=1252 inside the silencer box to bring in fresh air. I'ved talked to several HVAC guys and they say that i don't necessarily need an exhaust fan inside the other silencer box because the static pressure inside the studio will naturally exhaust itself through the other vent. Makes sense to me. I'll be lining the silencer boxes with 2" 703 and using an insulated flex duct to connect the inside vent to the silencer box on the outside of the building. The flexduct and vent on the inside of the studio will be 12" (twice as big as the 6" in fan diameter) to prevent air noise.

As for the drywall, I have all my furring strips, acoustic caulking, green glue on the way, and just need to order my backing rod. Then I can start bulking up the 1st leaf of my build, put up strips of drywall between the studs, with green glue between drywall and backside of siding. The green glue layer should greatly help any rattling or buzzing sounds that xaMdaM had mentioned watching out for (though I'll still be tapping, banging, and listening every step of the way).

Thank you all for your help!

realdoyle · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:34 am

Oh and I stumbled across this video showing the effectiveness of Green Glue. I thought you all might find it interesting. If they are telling the truth with the materials and the test really is legit, then it's pretty impressive. It's also interesting to see how green glue reacts 30 days after being applied. Still movable.

Green Glue demonstration video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiUBxjFG53o

realdoyle · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 4:51 pm

Howdy,

I just wanted to update my build thread with some pics for y'all. I've had the electrician here and we are really starting to pick up steam on this project now.

I followed xaMdaM's example and added a layer of drywall and Green Glue between all of my wall and ceiling studs (with backing rod, acoustic caulk and furring strips to keep them in place). I beat on all the walls, listening for and rattles or buzzes. There were a few that I had to give extra attention to.

I just put up some recessed lighting isolation quiet boxes. The electrician will be coming tomorrow to wire them for the 6" Halo cans I got. I should have my first electrical inspection this week. I can't wait to fill in the 18" deep trench running through my back yard and start screwing in all the RSIC-1 clips and laying in the wall insulation.

I also attached the ventilation silencer boxes to the back of the building today. I'm going tomorrow to get the ducting from a local sheet metal supply shop. I'll post pic of that soon.

Long day... goodnight,
-Doyle

lilith_envy · **Posted:** Wed May 19, 2010 12:57 pm

Nice, Very neat!

realdoyle · **Posted:** Fri May 28, 2010 8:41 pm

I had my final electrical inspection on Tuesday and I passed! Now I can put up the rest of my iso clips, put up the hat channel, put in the insulation, and start the daunting task up hanging drywall (3 layers thick with green glue between each layer). sigh.

Some more pics of recent progress:
- Me and my electrician came up with a solution to bring the electrical outlet boxes out from the stud enough to reach the outer layer of drywall. From the stud it is going to be about 3.5" to the face of the wall. I'm doing RSIC-1 clips, hat channel and 3 layers of drywall. The extension electrical boxes only extend about 2 inches. I used some left over pieces of wood furring strips and created some extra extension to the face of the stud and then attached the outlet box to that.

- Got pics of the 18 inch deep trench they dug from my house to the back of my yard for the electrical and data line conduits. Special thanks to my dad for reminding me to lay data lines while the trench is still open.

- I started attaching the ventilation silencer boxes to the back of my building. I took Rod's advice and moved the fan (that's going to bring fresh air in) outside of the silencer box. So the unfinished small wooden box holds the Fantech FG6 inline fan. I've already cut the 6" vent holes and wired it all up. The fan is super powerful and super quiet. I'll take more pics of this tomorrow to show it with the vents.

I'll post more pics soon.

realdoyle · **Posted:** Wed Jun 23, 2010 2:44 pm

Here are some pics of me completing the "fresh air ventilation" system. To recap, my idea was to build my silencer boxes on the outside of the building and then attach a Fantech FG6 fan to blow in the fresh air. I've tested it and it is working great! Super quiet and is blowing a steady stream of air out the exhaust vent on the other side of the building.

I used R-300 duct liner (2 inch) to line the inside of the silencer boxes. And since only one side of the r-300 is coated, I used DP1010 duct sealant on the "yellow" unfinished side to prevent any loose fibers from blowing into the studio.

I love it when an idea comes together!

realdoyle · **Posted:** Wed Jun 23, 2010 3:05 pm

Here are some pics from the insulation stage. I put in r-13 unfaced in the walls and r-19 unfaced in the ceiling.
At first I wasn't sure if I'd need the hat channel installed to hold the insulation in place (especially since my insulation did not have the kraft paper to staple to the studs). So I put in a few pieces of hat channel and then tried putting in the insulation. This was MUCH more difficult and I do not recommend going this route. I did the rest of the walls without hat channel and the insulation stayed in place just fine.

On the ceiling I put in the first, last, and middle hat channel to support the insulation and that worked okay until I got the rest of the hat channel installed.

I also have to say that I put in all of the wall insulation in one night and was not able to do the ceiling until a few days later. But when I went into the studio during the day it was still really warm and almost muggy. However, once I put in the ceiling insulation it stays cool at a cucumber in there! I was amazed at how drastic of a difference adding the ceiling insulation made to the daytime temperature in there. And remember it is June in Los Angeles, it gets pretty warm.

I'm having my Mr. Slim mini-split a/c unit installed on Sunday. It's a 26 SEER, 9000 BTU unit (model: MSZFE09NA / MUZFE09NA). It qualifies for the government rebate so I'll get 30% back on the unit and installation. I do have to say that I am disappointed at the look of the indoor unit. For a name like "Mr. Slim" you'd think it would be not so block-y looking. It's not really slim at all. But at 26 SEER this thing should barely use any power, so that kinda makes up for the cubist design. I'll post pics of it soon.

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