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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:28 am 
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Location: Santiago, Chile
:shock: Stunning! Just stunning! That's one gorgeous looking studio you have there. Wow! :thu: :!: Great workmanship.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 6:48 pm 
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looking so good Simo :thu:

"next installing glasses and door/windows architraves"

and cleaning up the front window?? :)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:37 am 
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Thanks a lot Stuart - in the end I took in your advice and abandoned the idea of placing skyline diffusers each side of the air con in the control room (as proposed in the pics at the bottom of page 15 on this thread)
... but instead went with full absorption at the rear.


Thank you very much John - OMG that IS a filthy window indeed :oops: I'll take care of that ugliness immediately :D

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 6:57 pm 
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Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, England
Wow. really enjoyed looking at this thread, It's helping me so much in terms of learning the techniques involved.

Im in the process of planning the construction of my garage studio build and i wonder, if you get chance could you give me an idea of how you approached the floors? What layers are involved above the concrete floor? I noticed you damp proofed, and then I can obviously see your wood floor finish, are there other layers in between?

Thanks again for a great thread.
Marc


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:40 pm 
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Thanks Marc, I'm glad you find the thread helpful !

First I used the self levelling compound as my concrete floor was a bit uneven.
Then the liquid damp proof membrane (black).
Above that I used the Fibreboard Underlay (green), and on top an additional thinner layer (3mm) of flooring underlay (white) which helps a bit to compensate for unevenness in the wood floor and also to add comfort when walking… all purchased from Wickes.

You should be able to see all the layers in the pics in the previous page (half way down)


...As Ro fairly pointed out, another way is to just glue the floor directly to the concrete floor after the damp proof treatment…


Good luck with your build !


Simo

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:23 pm 
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Brilliant thanks for the info. Much appreciated :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:54 am 
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Hi guys

I'd like the idea of placing silica crystals in the gap between the two windows (as seen in a few examples here), to help avoid - or at least minimize - moisture.

The idea is to use a cloth stapled to the inner stops of the two frames to 'visually' bridge them (that shouldn't cause any flanking problems I guess).

So, If I hide the silica crystals underneath that cloth, would they be still effective? ..or they need to be in the open space without anything covering them in order to do their thing (I'm not sure if I'd like them there…well, actually I wouldn't :) ) ?

Any idea ?


Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:46 am 
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So, If I hide the silica crystals underneath that cloth, would they be still effective? ..or they need to be in the open space without anything covering them in order to do their thing
No problem, Simo. That's the normal way of doing it. Fit a piece of Homasote across the gap between the windows, cut a groove in it, put the silica gel in the groove, then wrap it in fabric. The silica gel will work just fine like that.

You need to use the right amount of silica gel: You have to calculate how much you need from the volume of air enclosed between the glass. You need about 200 grams per cubic meter of air, which is roughly 6 grams per cubic foot. So for example, if your window is 10 feet long by 5 feet high, and the depth between the two panes is 6 inches, that would be 25 cubic feet or air, so you'd need about 150 grams of silica gel in there, which is about 1/3 of a pound, or a bit more than 5 ounces. It doesn't hurt to use a bit extra...

For the other three edges of the window (the two sides and the top) do the same thing with pieces of Homasote wrapped in cloth, but without the silica gel. That only goes on the piece that goes across the bottom of the frames.


- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:22 pm 
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Thanks for you response Stuart, as clear and detailed as usual, like reading a step by step manual. :thu:
Is there a limit to your knowledge?? :D :wink:

Wow, homasote…I never thought of using it as I believed it's too rigid and when nailed to the two structure it would have bridged them…
But, based on what you said, it seems it must be still negligible for that purpose and since I've got some leftover from the hangers that's what I'm going to use, as I certainly trust Your advice sir !

Grazie

Simo

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 2:23 am 
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I never thought of using it as I believed it's too rigid and when nailed to the two structure it would have bridged them
Ooops! I forgot to mention that you DON'T nail it in place! Just "pressure fit" in place: cut the Homasote to just the right size, so that when it is wrapped in fabric it will fit into the gap between the two frames snugly. For the side pieces and the one across the top, you can use a few dabs of glue on just ONE frame, to keep it in place. Not on both frames, as that might cause some bridging, and no nails or screws! You could probably even use acoustic caulk instead of glue. Just a few dabs in some places on one side, only enough to keep the fabric-wrapped-homasote in place, and prevent it falling out later.

Here's a SketchUp file with an animation to show how to do it. John made this many years ago, but I updated it to add more details, so this is the new version:

Attachment:
window_build-Animation-S03.skp


I still need to do some more work on that to make it clearer and more details, but it gives you the basic idea. Just click on each "Scene" in order, from 1 to 5, to see the build sequence.


- Stuart -


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 2:57 am 
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Fantastic !! :D Thanks for sharing Stuart ! :thu:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:41 am 
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So funny, Simone--I just finished posting pictures of what I did in this regard, similar to what Stuart recommends. Although I must admit that no calculations were involved!

Anyway, as always, I must say that you are doing beautiful work. I'm really in awe of what you've created!

Mark


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Thanks Mark, very kind :D

yes, it seems we are more or less at similar stage, aren't we? … can't wait too to have this completely finished and concentrate 100% on music

I noticed your progress too, VERY impressive indeed !! :thu:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:34 am 
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Simo - Still learning lots from your build, thanks so much once again.

I wondered if you get chance if you wouldnt mind helping me with a couple of questions, as a fellow uk guy:

1, I noticed you used a couple of different types of insulation. Could you explain which products they are and the reason they were chosen? Im looking at using Earthwool Building Slab RS45 as the insulation in my wall cavity, and behind the plasterboards on my inside-out design. Just trying to confirm thats a good move.

2, Im looking at aircon mini split systems and wondered if you have any advice given that you have got yourself one too. Products? Prices?

I may have more questions as I get into mine, Hope thats cool!

Thanks again
Marc


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:57 pm 
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Hi Marc

no problem at all !

When I bought the first load of material I went for the Knauf earthwool RS45 insulation as it had similar characteristics as the Rockwool RWA45 but was cheaper.

I later found out that it's a bit of a pain to work with, as its consistency makes it crumble when you cut it or move it around.

I then went for the Rockwool RWA45 which was much easier to handle being a bit more rigid… if you cut it precisely so it goes snug between studs (or wherever you need it) it will stay there without the need of wires or netting to holding it in place, even between joist in the ceiling…. you can add those for peace of mind if you feel like of course :-)


For the aircon, I went for the Panasonic CS-E7NKEW (£530) on the control room and and a slight more modern variation on the live room (Panasonic CS-RE9PKE @ £500).

Hope that helps


Good luck

Simo

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