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 Post subject: Holes
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:55 am
Posts: 34
Location: New York City, USA
Hello, everyone -

Thank you for this fab forum, and the generosity of all involved.

How best to deal with unavoidable holes through the carefully constructed leaves (leafs?) of a two-leaf isolation room? Of course, the goal is to regain as much of the lost isolation as possible.

For example, for a wall-mount ductless HVAC, one needs to run 2 refrigerant lines, a drain pipe, and electric power. Those would have to go through both leaves.

Just make the punctures as small as possible, pull through the lines, and seal around with compound and caulking? Stuff first with insulation? Rubber/neoprene?
Any advice appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Holes
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 11:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:17 am
Posts: 11984
Location: Santiago, Chile
First, it would be better to keep all of your posts and questions in one single thread, rather than spread them around all over the place. That way, you and others will be able to keep track of everything related to your build a lot easier.

To answer the question: Point number one regarding penetrations across the cavity is to try to avoid the holes lining up, as much as possible. In other words, the penetration of the inner-leaf should NOT be directly opposite the penetration of the outer leaf. For HVAC lines, I normally suggest offsetting the penetrations by at least one stud bay, or better still making a "loop" of that bundle inside the wall. In other words, gently bend the entire bundle just as it passes through the inner leaf (wide radius!) such that it ends up running parallel to the surface, but without touching it. Then run the lines over by a couple of feet, and gently bend them again (wide radius!) so they pass through other leaf. Make the holes larger than the bundle by a few mm, and fill with abundant caulk (and maybe backer rod too).

Do be careful to ensure that the condensate drain line always slopes downhill: you do not want it to ever rise up, or the water won't flow.


And of course, minimize the number of penetrations! For example, you should have just one single penetration for your entire electrical system to bring in the power feed. From there, it is all distributed internally, with no further penetrations.

- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.


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 Post subject: Re: Holes
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:55 am
Posts: 34
Location: New York City, USA
Thank you, Stuart!

Soundman2020 wrote:
First, it would be better to keep all of your posts and questions in one single thread, rather than spread them around all over the place. That way, you and others will be able to keep track of everything related to your build a lot easier.


Yes, of course I can do that...I thought this topic was of more general interest, not specific to my project, since many studio owners will have to face this problem....? I didn't see an existing thread about the topic so I thought it might be good to have a separate thread, which can be included into the "REFERENCE AREA - Useful threads/links" area?

Soundman2020 wrote:
To answer the question: Point number one regarding penetrations across the cavity is to try to avoid the holes lining up, as much as possible. ... Make the holes larger than the bundle by a few mm, and fill with abundant caulk (and maybe backer rod too).
-


All makes sense. We will do it this way.

Soundman2020 wrote:
Do be careful to ensure that the condensate drain line always slopes downhill: you do not want it to ever rise up, or the water won't flow.
-


Yes, the HVAC installer went over that with me; this use of a gravity-driven drain also will probably make a drain pump (with its possibilities of noise and vibration) unnecessary.

Soundman2020 wrote:
And of course, minimize the number of penetrations! For example, you should have just one single penetration for your entire electrical system to bring in the power feed. From there, it is all distributed internally, with no further penetrations.


I assume you mean surface-mount electrical boxes, correct? We were planning on that. I preferred recessed-mount visually, of course, but was advised against that; apparently the "safe bet" was to surface-mount, rather than try to achieve a good seal with putty backing or something similar.

We expect to only have about 4 such total wall boxes. However, our electrician was suggesting a separate small wall puncture for each surface-mount box (outlet or light switch). The puncture could be just large enough for the wire to pull through, and then can be sealed around if any slight surrounding gap remains. This would look better as it would not require the visible wall wiring "raceways". Bad idea?

Thank you again.

Best regards


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