John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Thank you Glenn! Makes sense.

And thank you Brian for explaining the plus and minuses of wood verses MDF slots.

An update; Purchased the Halogens for the cloud.

Waiting for the supplies that I ordered for the electrical work (wire etc.),
the dimmers and the star led lights. As soon as the supplies are in I will do the
boxes to insure sound isolation for the dimmers, electric boxes etc.

Then, (I hope!!!!!!) after the wires are drawn, that we will FINALLY put up the drywall

Then I will get a sound analysis of the room (due to the dimensions of the room there are some NASTY nodes to deal with)
and use those measures after consulting with you guys to "calibrate" the slots.

After that it is time for the flush mounts, saws, cloud, broad band absorbers and light installation.

Now I am going back into sketch mode to put some "flesh" on the "bones" on the skeleton of the room.

Got inspired by John's last completed room design in Bombay India.

Hope ya all aight!!!!!!

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

Made a wood frame for the room (I am talking about a sketch lol ).

Glenn anything you think needs to be improved.

Got a question concerning the MDF placement; can I leave any open gaps that are not visible
in the back of the flush mounts or does that defeat the purpose of flush mounting the monitors?

I know that the saws have to be caulked properly so that the slots work correctly;
if I drill the wood construction to the saws do I caulk in order to avoid damaging the functionality of the slots??????

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

attaching things to the front of the slats-saws? the air cavity needs to be sealed. the front has openings the leading edge of the saws should be absorptive. i'd merge the outside edge of the soffit into the first slats so it's a smooth transition and if you can afford a bit of space in-between the soffits to widen the soffit faces. make sure you measuring includes decoupling the speakers from the surrounding frame and stand.

_________________
Glenn

Thank you Glenn , but I was also curious about the connection points of the flush mount wood frame
(the frame I added) when they are attached and screwed on to the saws (like in the back pic).

Since the saws have to be sealed like you pointed out, is it enough to caulk in order for the saws to be air tight (might sound like a silly question
but I want to make sure)?

I only got 2070mm to work with as far as the spacing of the flush mount is concerned. Since I presume (please correct me if I am wrong) that the saws require 400mm to work
correctly (200mm each) that leaves me with 1670mm to work with, take away an additional 180mm (45mm on each side once the monitors are on the monitor stands) leaves me with
1490mm counting from the far end of the monitors (not centered) in between each monitor.

I have to make the sealed 20 mm MDF box that are going to house the monitors (with an open back for cooling the amp in the back) which leaves 25mm (each side of each monitor)
for the MDF flush mount plate that will go all the way up to the ceiling.

I think I understand what you mean by merging the slot to the edge of the soffit corners, that should not be that difficult to do.

Is there anything I have not looked at? A better way of approaching the spacing issue(s)?

I have another question Glenn?

What is the easiest way of decoupling the monitors??????

Is it enough with rubber pads, I've looked at a lot of links but can't quite wrap my head around it.



Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

Still would like to have the "how to easiest decouple" the monitors question answered.

I know that you pros might think that the question is elementary and that the answer is easily reached by using the search function;
regardless of that I want to ensure I DO NOT make a mistake based on a false presumption.

I get the sense that (might be a little bit unfair way of looking at the political reality in this forum )some of the pros in
here are all to happy to comment something AFTER something already has been build or constructed and they can point out how you screwed up
.

I have a few questions that are connected to the pics that got posted (I presume some of you are going to comment on the way the roof has been assembled; IT WILL stay that way; the steel strip
that runs along the ceiling is there to insure that the weight of the cloud can be supported, and YES it makes contact with the ceiling above which is not the optimal way of achieving good sound isolation).

Q1) One of the picks shows a wooden box that I made out of MDF that is going to contain my dimmers. Once the resilient channels are placed on the studs they add an additional 15mm.
The drywall is going to be 30 mm in total. My objective here is to place the box flush with the drywall which would be sticking out 45 mm from the end of the stud.

How much can the drywall move once its weight is on the resilient channel??????

Q2) I plan to end the drywall where the resilient channels end and then use caulk on the drywall and the stud. Is that OK??????


Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

Good carpentry and caulk will do the sealing you need on the saws. On the speaker, if you decouple the speaker from the box using agglomerated foam, sorbathane, sylomer, or soft neoprene or a closed cell foam, you can make it just snug enough not to move but not tight enough to directly couple. Leave a slight gap around the speaker face and the soffit plate and seal around the edge with caulk or rubber.

_________________
Glenn

Like always, Thank you Glenn .

As far as the electric box I made for the mix rooms dimmers, will the drywall move considerably when the weight of the
drywall hits the resilient channels??????

When you seal the monitors with caulk, what can be done not damage the monitor and how do the stud corners look in terms of caulking once the drywall is up (the pics)

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

Here is some pics on today's progress; the dimmer box in place and the cables that are going to the star pattern led lights.

Have not caulked the holes in the box yet.

Now I have to complete the boxes that are going to contain the star led lights.

Questions;

Q1) Still would like some answers regarding my last post when somebody (Glenn I hope) has a chance.

Q2) Would applying a damping compound (density 1040 per square meter; it seems to function like green glue;
according to the information i received the compund made out of polyurethane converts the sound waves to heat) possibly be beneficial with regards to reducing the flaking paths of my ceiling?

An update on the sloooooow progress we are making; the electrician will not be able to make it until wednesday. Hope to make some further progress then!!!!!!

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

the resilient channel will shift when weight is applied (RC-2 very little, RC-1 probably 1/4") so if you're working within 5mm tolerances for the drywall all will be good... on the monitor - latex caulk shouldn't impact the speaker as it will peel away pretty easily.

_________________
Glenn

I have not said this before, but you are THE MAN Glenn!!!!!!

What do you think about the compound Glenn, translated to US dollars is a few hundred bucks
and is suppose to add a reduction of 8 to 16 dB (it is a glue that goes between the 2 layers of drywall)?

My thought is to only apply it to the ceiling.

Q) I plan to end the drywall where the resilient channels end, there is no connecting drywall, just the stud. (Look at my
corner pics)

My question is; is it OK just to use caulk in the corners? Won't that cancel out the
resilient channels function since the studs that the caulk goes on are connected to the
wood frame without being decoupled?


Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

the Green Glue or Quiet Glue are constrained damping compounds which can enhance the overall transmission loss of the wall and ceiling assemblies and in the right situation are very useful - but it often comes to a budget to make the call versus simply adding another layer of drywall. on the drywall corners - if you couple the drywall to the frame instead of the isolated hat channel/furring strips, you're short circuiting your investment. the caulk isn't really coupling so if it's only a caulk edge then OK, but if you're screwing/nailing/gluing then that is not good.

think of it in terms of a pair of tin cans as a child's telephone:

_________________
Glenn

Thank you for the informative and easily digestible example Glenn.

Your advice has been of tremendous use throughout my decision making process
during the different phases of this project.

I have a question Glenn that concerns the broad band absorbers that are going to be next to the saw slots.

Q) I plan to fasten the broad band absorbers to the wall with drywall anchors which means that I have to locate all the tree studs
before placing the drywall in order to insure no "short circuiting" of the resilient channels.

I assume that we have to use sound caulk in order to avoid sound leaks.

The problem is that the anchors that I've found only are for walls that are up to 27mm thick and
the walls are 30 mm thick (double 15 mm drywall). The anchors are 75mm long and have a 13 mm diameter.
http://www.jula.se/gipsankare-365020

Is there a particular way of caulking the anchors once they are in place Glenn?
What drywall anchoring method do you recommend?

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

look for "drill point anchors" - basically you drill a start hole and screw them into the drywall then screw your hooks etc into those. the other option is a French cleat which is a batten screwed into the studs and it has an angled cut which matches a block on the absorber - you can move them back and forth as well as easily put up or down as needed. plus more rugged.

_________________
Glenn

Thank you so much Glenn for guiding me in the right direction!

The electrician will be here tomorrow, so I'll post some pics then.

I have a question Glenn.

Q) Is it OK to screw in the french cleats on the studs before putting up the drywall
(cutting hole in drywall with margin for sound caulk and drywall movement once the drywall is on the resilient channels etc.).

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados

the cleats sit inside the room

_________________
Glenn