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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:00 pm 
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Happy Birthday Brien :)

Have A great day!

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:16 pm 
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden
I have a question concerning the Mixing Room lights.

Have been looking at some light solutions.

The cloud will contain three lights.

On top of that there will be two (2) wall lights on the rear
of the room
on the side walls.

My concerns regards these lights; I wonder how to most efficiently caulk in order to avoid any
sound leaks AFTER (lol) the lights are installed.

http://www.elnordic.se/Produkter/produkt.asp?pid=183
http://www.eldirekt.se/?cat_id=115


Could the honorable members in this forum PLEASE shine some light
(shine some LIGHT......get it!)into these matter(s) (that would make me a happy camper :twisted: ).

Found this links;
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5560&hilit=caulk+lights
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14794&p=110884&hilit=caulk+box#p110884
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15413&p=112223&hilit=caulk+wires#p112223
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14136&p=99518&hilit=caulk+outlet#p99518
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10153&p=72212&hilit=caulk+outlet#p72212




Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


Last edited by Useg Diaz-Granados on Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:22 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:52 am 
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Useg Diaz-Granados wrote:
Happy Birthday Brien :)

Have A great day!

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


Thank you Sir!


It was a good day!

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:05 pm 
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Been chasing electricians (get the best price I can get); the only thing stopping me from putting on drywall.

It is going to be a low sound cloud since it is only 2,40 cm from the
ground to the ceiling after the new ceiling is in place.

Need your advice Glenn on a updated Sketchup drawing I made
that is based on John's saws.

How do you think my skeleton looks Glenn?

I was thinking of making a decoupled MDF based frame that is not coupled with the walls (like a book shelf)
for the flush mount and the saws.

The green thing in the middle is a broadband absorber.

I was thinking of turning the six broadband absorbers on the side walls into two (2) by merging
three (3) together (two larger frames) on each wall and placing lights on the sides that are facing
the entrance of the mix room (by the bass traps). Have to make a wood frame to fit the led
lamps right on top of the absorbers.


Do I have enough room for hangers underneath the speakers? If no, can I have them behind the
current speaker stand? Is it enough to decouple the monitors with rubber pads?

Suppose to be slot on the saws by the way (looks like a solid tree wall now).


Would you do anything different, anything you recommend??????

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


Attachments:
Sound Treatment 1F.jpg
Sound Treatment 1F.jpg [ 158.91 KiB | Viewed 349 times ]
Sound Treatment 1B.jpg
Sound Treatment 1B.jpg [ 125.42 KiB | Viewed 349 times ]
Sound Treatment 1U.jpg
Sound Treatment 1U.jpg [ 170.21 KiB | Viewed 349 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 10:28 pm 
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the back wall units should be absorptive - cloth covered absorbers, perhaps with some widely space slats to preserve some HF. otherwise it looks like a good plan. i don't think you have enough space for hangers so put a layer of rigid insulation and then fill the rest with lighter (pink - 15kg/m3) insulation.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 10:50 pm 
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The angled wall panels, see how the second one projects into the room farther than the first? Would that need to be reversed or even make it a straight line, would this be better or no?

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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 4:22 am 
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Thank you Glenn!

I think the line now is all right Brien.

If it is straighten it would hit the corner of the Saw because of the lack of room (I think).

Sorry for the late response, celebrated Easter with the Family, hope you guys had a good one ! :)

An update; Finally found an Electrician through a friend, I will post some pics of the room before the
drywall goes up.

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:31 am 
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Useg Diaz-Granados wrote:
Thank you Glenn!

I think the line now is all right Brien.



It presents an early reflection point and can disturb the mix...

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:22 am 
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the leading edge of each saw-tooth should be absorptive. this way the reflective portion is facing to the back and the front edge is an absorber which prevents the reflection and edge diffraction.


Attachments:
Angled Slat Box - Small.jpg
Angled Slat Box - Small.jpg [ 359.49 KiB | Viewed 311 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:44 am 
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That seems like a simple solution to a potentially irritating issue...thanks Glenn,

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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 3:04 am 
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Thank you Guys! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 5:03 am 
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Glenn I noticed that you in your last saw example used a saw made out of MDF.

I've been searching for a few hours now and hope to get your assistance in finding a
calculator for calculating how to router the MDF panels (gaps of the slot, slat, how thick the
router piece needs to be and what frequencies would be affected etc.).

I Like this pic:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11542&p=101838&hilit=slot#p101838
and hope that it could be used in my rooms saw design.

Are there any drawbacks in using MDF versus wood slots?

What do you recommend?

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:48 am 
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Check out the Helmholz calculator from John Sayer's Recording Manual http://johnlsayers.com/Recmanual/index.htm

Whether you go for wooden slats or routed panels, I think is more a question of aesthetics.

You might want to consider though that once you routed the panel, it can't be altered anymore, whereas individual wooden slats can be repositioned if necessary.

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As you slide down the bannister of life, may the splinters never point the wrong way...


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:23 pm 
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Brian thank you for your recommendation, but; I've downloaded the Hemholz calculator a long time ago.

My question to Glenn pertains primarily to the router size (used in order to create the gaps) since
I presume that the method used for creating the slots differs from the one used when using wood.

If anyone can shine some light into this matter I would be thankful :)

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 12:57 am 
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the router bit size will be whatever you have determined is the size of the slot opening... so if the opening is 5mm, use a 5mm straight bit, 10mm, etc. on larger openings where you might not have the large size bit, simply route it in multiple passes.

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