John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Hello All,

My first post here after lurking for awhile. Have to say this forum is a great resource. Appreciate everyone's time and knowledge.

I've seen some posts here that touch on the below subject but I couldn't find one that detailed the actual process (sorry if I missed some such post; please feel free to point me to it)...

I'm looking for specifics on how to seal up a roll-up garage door wall. I'm in the planing stages of a small garage studio build-out (8.5H, 9W x 18L - one, duel purpose room for recording/mixing). The structure I'm building in is a detached, cinder block construction w/ concrete slab and I plan to build a decoupled interior wall/ceiling inside (2 leaf system) but the weak link in the structure is the (metal/vinyl) roll up garage door. I'd like to leave it in place for appearances, not for use (I have a side door that will be the main entrance & will become a double door system) but obviously the roll up must be dealt with isolation-wise. I'm thinking the best way to tackle it short of bricking up the opening (costly) is to frame a wall within the recessed doorway, in front of the inside of the roll up door. I'm thinking (going from outside to in) - Roll Up Door - OSB - 3 sheets of drywall - framing - R13 in the cavities - 2" airspace - Then the interior wall assembly

I realize that this wall won't be as affective as the cinder block in terms of isolation but it's what I have to work with. Would like to record a small kit from time to time in there (pop music, nothing heavy).

So... Questions - Does above seem like a good plan? Will I be creating a dreaded 3 leaf system with - Roll Up Door - air space - Wall #1 - air space - Interior Wall #2? Should I put insulation between the door and wall #1 or leave the air pocket?

Any/all feedback would be greatly appreciated?

Best,
-mb

Update - Just found this from Rod on the subject from deep within another thread -

if you were to face the back of the door with a protective membrane - perhaps a 6 or 8 mil poly - which could be temporarily attached with a spray adhesive - and then frame a wall inside of that which was slightly higher and wider than the door - (the door can be locked to the original frame with metal Z clips) and then seal and one layer of drywall over the new frame........... in fact - di it with a backwards frame and gain the air space for added iso.

whew......... you could then take between the door and the new drywall and completely fill it with expansive foam - something in a 3 to 4pcf capacity.......

This way the door, and the drywall would become one assembly and one leaf.

Guess that answers my question. Figured I'd re-post in case anyone else was facing the same dilemma.

"Guess that answers my question."

Not really.

It is an answer to A question....not yours specifically.

_________________
Brien Holcombe
_____________________________________________
Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

Brien,

Thanks for the reply but I'm not sure what you mean. Are you saying that what Rod posted is not a good solution to the problem or you're just saying it's one of many possible solutions?

If you have any further suggestions on how to seal this thing up, I'd love to hear them and I'd be much obliged.

Best,
-mb

just following along ...

If you don't want to 'brick/block' the removed garage door ... which is probably the most
effective ... Then you may want to consider framing it in [2x6]. Then just skin the outside like a regular wall. You could then vinyl cover the frame in.

Leave the interior of that frame uncovered ... and fill it with insulation.

Then build you 'room in a room' spaced off from the outer wall.

Trying to seal any garage door, just from the weather, is tough enough ... trying to
acoustically seal it AND not degrade your isolation may cost you more, and still not work.

Just throwing ideas out there.

It will be a 3-leaf system, yes, to a certain extent. However, you can compensate for that by building the other two leaves with more mass, putting the most mass on the middle leaf, and leaving larger air gaps.

And yes, like others have said, you should put insulation in the gap next to the door, and also try to damp the door itself with something.

- Stuart -

_________________
I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.

Hey RJHollins & Soundman2020,

Thanks so much for the replies and ideas, appreciate the feedback. I have a lot to think about re: taming this wall.

Thanks Again,
-mb