Gleeman Studios Construction

Jester · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 2:26 pm

I have been hard at work on my doors and I have 7 of them so it's taking a while. I'll post some pictures soon.

If my door stops don't go all the way to the edge of my door jambs is that going hurt my isolation?

Ro · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:41 pm

No it don't hurt. It's just a placeholder for the seal.

love to see your door design and pix of the actual build!

good luck!!

Jester · **Posted:** Sat Jul 11, 2009 2:05 am

All of the electrical other than the mini splits is in. I used isolated ground 20amp receptacles through out to go along with my star grounding system. I put outlets behind where my 5.1 soffits will be for my powered monitors. They are attached to 2 on/off switches one for the L/R and one for the C/Ls/Rs speakers. For lights I used line level track lighting so I can use energy efficient compact fluorescents. I didn’t use faders but in my control room and studio A I have two sets of lights each on their own switch so I can have two brightness settings. I put in about 30 keystone RJ-45 jacks. These will be used for networking, phone, Isdn, and a Hear Back cue system. Each room also has coax and RGB outlets.

Jester · **Posted:** Sat Jul 11, 2009 1:19 pm

This is a 1 ¾” door I got from a salvage yard. I striped the finish off the face that will be seen and filled the door knob hole with wood filler. I then glued a sheet of ¾ birch plywood to the face leaving 1” on the sides and top. Most of the doors I am making will be 1 3/8” doors with ¾” in plywood but this one is going on my live room and I wanted it to be a little bit beefier.

Ro · **Posted:** Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:56 pm

Cool!
That's a great rescue

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jul 14, 2009 5:21 am

For the door frames I’m using 1” (5/4) pine stock. I measured out where I want the hinges to go then I routed them out using a template I made. The hinges are 5” x 4.5" heavy duty Stanley ball bearing hinges. They are reversible by flipping the flush tips and pins. My understanding is that the pin should point down and the side with the most knuckles should attach to the jamb.

Jester · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:26 am

Like everything else in the studio the doors are taking me a lot longer than I thought they would. I have managed to get 3 doors hung. I still have to do the stops and hardware (not mention four more doors sigh). They do look good and after a lot of work they fit fairly tightly. I made sure the door frame fit the rough opening very tightly so that the door is well supported. Even without any seals they block a lot of sound.

Jester · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:42 am

I am ordering my glass this week and I have a couple of questions. First I want to make sure I am getting the right thickness. My walls have a layer of 1/2" and a layer 5/8" drywall on each side(4.725 psf) So I plan on getting a sheet of 3/8” and a sheet of 1/2" annealed glass for each window. Does that look correct? Second, I am trying to decide if I should angle my glass or not. Because my walls are fairly close together (one is very close) it seems like parallel would be best for sound. Plus it seems like angled would be a lot harder to build. What I am worried about is the reflections in the glass (visual). Will I still be able to see my clients through the glass? You guys that have done your glass parallel can you see through it alright?

John Sayers · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:09 am

That's about the right glass size Leif - maybe make one side vertical and angle the other side to stop the parallel reflections.

jbassino · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:50 am

Always the room that has more light is easier to see from the other side, so make sure you lighs are somehow equal on your rooms. If it happen to have a low light for the recording room, the singer will see you very well but you will see a lot of your control room reflections on your side. Somehow laminated glass acts like a "polarized" glass

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:58 am

The walls for my window between the Vocal booth and control room are very close together. Even if I only angle the glass on the control room side the glass will only be about 5" apart at the closest part. Would it still be worth angling? I can get about 9" apart if I do them parallel.

John Sayers · **Posted:** Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:36 pm

I'd angle the booth side glass to stop you seeing yourself in the window.

Jester · **Posted:** Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:30 am

Would it be ok to use 3/4" plywood for my stops? That is what I'm using for my slats and it would be nice if it matched. If I only angled the glass a little would that sill help with visual reflections? Thanks for the help John.

bassman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:58 am

I would not use plywood for a stop. You need a hardwood to stand up to time for something like that. Plywood would not stay true once the expansion and contraction of heat and cool starts in, plus humidity would take its toll I think.

I point you to my thread where I did a bit of photos on the glass. We have a similar wall construction. I did have the advantage of using a bunch of pews for the wood frames and stops (solid oak!) and am still using the pews for all sorts of wood details.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10533&start=30

-ashley

Jester · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:26 am

I'm curious about your decision to angle your glass horizontally instead of vertically. The way you did it seems like it would be a little easier. How are your reflections?

I thought plywood was more stable than solid wood. The stuff i would use is 3/4" cabinet grade with a maple veneer.

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