Gleeman Studios Construction

Jester · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:24 am

I am getting started on the windows. So far I have the stops ready for one window. I'm going to get the glass at the end of the week. I ended up using 4/4 pine stock for the stops. For my larger window I angeled both sides 3 degrees which put the pane about 6" apart at the bottom. Not sure how I'm going to do the other window yet.

I'm also working on getting my first layer of door seals up. I started by stapling the trunk rubber to the frame. I tried to do the first door alone and it was tricky. It is really a lot easier with 2 people. I put a staple every 3". I used a my table saw to cut a slot in the stops that will fit over the seals and hopefully lock the stops into place. I am debating putting a small about of acoustical caulk in the slot when I install them.

Jester · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:35 am

I am getting close to working on my acoustical treatment for the rear of my control room. I need to do this soon as my mini split will be mounted on this wall. I’m thinking most of the wall will be have a cloth front except where the mini split is mounted. My plan is to line the back wall with a layer of 3” mineral wool. On each side I will have hangers and in the middle I will have a 1’x4’ super chunk trap. Does this look like a good plan?

Ro · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:45 pm

Hai Jester, update's looking cool!

About the wall aborber; seems like a plan. You might wanna skip the superchunk and use hangers all over.
IF there was any superchunk to be used, I'd put'm in the corners... but that's more a gut-feeling approach. you see the whole superchunk vs hangers comparison is still in debate (afaik). I know John's a fan of Hangers, while I'm a superchunk lover. The latter is more expensive tho..
the couch CAN be a part of your absorbing back-wall too. (depends on the construction of the couch itself)

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:43 am

Yeah I realize there is a lot of debate about hangers and not much testing data to back them up. Sill i'm going to give them a go though as it seems like a lot of other people have used them with good results. As I see it the advantage of hangers over super chunks is that they use a lot less insulation. I am running a bit low on funds at this point so anything I can do to save some dosh is helpful. I am going to make my cloth screens removable so I can make the corners into superchunks later if I need to.

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:01 pm

I wanted to post a quick update as my windows are finally in!

For the gap between the window frames I bought some Celotex which I wrapped in cloth. I attached it using construction glue on one side of the frame. I also added some silica gel packs between the windows in case there is ever any moisture. Speaking of moisture we had a huge rain storm and some water came up through the floor in the control room. The studio has been very dry up to this point but now I am worried about moisture problems. I’m going to look at what it would take to install a sump pump. Anyway it is something I am going to have to research so back to the windows. I had the company I bought the glass from install it. I made sure they installed it using the method in Rods book. They used 2 setting blocks on each window, butyl tape on the stops, and caulk around the perimeter. They had some trouble getting the butyl tape to stick to the wood stops and on one sheet of glass the tape moved a little as they were putting it in so the now you can see the tape sticking up in two corners. It looks like the glass still has a good seal and it’s really not that noticeable. I am going to leave how it is as it would really be a pain to remove the glass at this point. The other 3 sheets went in perfectly. It looks really good! Even though the doors only have one set of seals and no seals at the bottom yet I can still only barely hear someone shouting in the other rooms.

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:12 pm

Window photos

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:16 pm

Still more window photos

Jester · **Posted:** Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:06 am

I finished building my rear wall framing. I think I’m going to go with superchunk for the whole rear wall.

I final got my mini splits hooked up and they are working well. I did all of the insulation myself and just hired someone to vacuum pump the line sets.

In case people don’t know right now is a great time to be buying mini splits in the US as some of them qualify for the 30 % tax credit. Plus a lot of local power companies are offering a rebate. Unfortunately there are only a handful of systems over 9k BTUs that qualify. I was planning on getting a Sanyo unit but none of their units over 9k qualify. You can find a list of qualifying systems here. http://www.ahridirectory.org/ceedirecto ... -HPCEE.pdf Amcor, Chigo, Maytag, and Harbor Point all offer three units and as far as I can tell they are all the same units rebranded. I ordered a 9k unit from Harbor Point (they sell a lot on ebay) last year which doesn’t qualify for the tax credit but I did get a great deal on it. A month ago I got the 12k unit from Amcor. I put the 9k unit in studio A and the 12k unit in the control room. I was worried about the sound levels on these units as they aren’t as quiet as the Sanyo and Mitsubishi units. The Harbor Point has a low setting of 28 dB and is very quiet in fact I think I could track with it going. The Amcor has a low setting of 35 dB and is definitely a bit louder that I would like. It just got cold here so I’m glad to have these going. I’m planning on adding a 3rd unit to the drum room at some point.

Ro · **Posted:** Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:42 pm

cool update, thanxs.

Those mini-splits, is that a device that also supplies fresh air? or you only have some cooling devices build in the room?

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:46 am

Most mini splits only do cooling and heating. There are some ducted mini splits that provide fresh air but they are really expensive. I have a ERV proving fresh air to all of my rooms (see page 5).

Rhino · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:31 pm

Hey Jester,

Great thread! You've got good great graphic design skills too, which makes for really helpful diagrams.

Just wondering from back on page 7, what did you decide on for your door thresholds? Surface mount, semi-mortised, fully mortised?

Also are you putting grill covers on your ducting silencer box inlets, or leaving them 'open'?

Jester · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:21 pm

Thanks Rhino! Wish I was good at sketch up but so far that programs is a bit beyond me.

I am going with surface mounted for my automatic door bottoms but I still haven't installed them or my thresholds yet. I still would really like to avoid having thresholds so I'm going to install a couple of the door bottoms and see if that blocks enough sound. I'll try to get to that next week.

I'm covering my inlets but I had a little bit of trouble finding 8x8" register and return grilles. I actuality got them in the mail today and have put up half of them. I take some pictures tomorrow.

Jester · **Posted:** Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:26 am

Back in June my father came a visited me for a week. I took advantage of his visit to start building a desk for the studio as he is an extremely good carpenter. He has been building and installing high end kitchen cabinets for most of my life and has been a carpenter for longer than I have been alive. Sadly I don’t get to see him often as he lives in Peru. If I had built the desk on my own it would have taken weeks but with his help it came together in a couple days.

I came up with a basic drawing of the desk in Sketch Up (still struggling with that program) roughly based on the Argosy desks. We used ¾ cabinet grade maple that I got a great deal on at a surplus store. We used iron on veneer on the edges. Unfortunately we used an all in one poly/stain (never again!) and it ended up having a lot of streaks and really hid the wood. This was a shame because the wood had a lot of really nice grain. After my father had left I picked a oil based stain for my doors and they came out great. So being the perfectionist I am I decided to strip the desk and refinish it. It took me over two weeks to strip it and refinish it. (ack!) I stained it and then finished it by spaying 3 coats of polyurethane. I bought some flame maple and used a router with a round-over bit to make an edge for the desk. I also made 2 draws with flame maple fronts. I finished the desk off by adding rack rails and a Humanscale 4G articulating keyboard arm (very cool). I’m really happy with how it turned out and can’t wait to load it full of gear.

Jester · **Posted:** Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:28 am

More desk photos

Jester · **Posted:** Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:31 am

Yet more desk photos...

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