Gleeman Studios Construction

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:14 am

For my floors I decided to just stain the concrete. I looking into acid stains but then found an eco-friendly soy based stain called Soycrete. I didn't take very good care of my floors during construction so they were coated in drywall mud, paint, glue and all manor of nasty stuff. To get them clean I rented a floor buffer with black pads. I cleaned the floors with a cleaner/degreaser then rinsed (buckets of water and a wet vac). Applied paint stripper to all of the paint spots then used the buffer again and rinsed. Spayed an etcher with a pump sprayer then rinsed 3 times. After a week of cleaning the floors looked like new.

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:17 am

More floor cleaning pictures...

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 2:06 pm

I bought a bunch of 1/4" masking tape (used quilting tape) and taped off a bunch tile like patterns. Soycrete is a great product to work with. It's non-toxic, doesn't stink and, there are a bunch of colors to choose from. I ordered two main colors and a bunch of samples. I just applied it using a sponge which was slow but it really gave me a lot control over the colors. Once I had all of the colors applied I used a pump sprayer and roller to apply 2 coats of Acri-soy glossy penetrating sealer and a coat of H&C wet look acrylic sealer. I then mopped on 3 coats of wax. ( Zep Wet Look Floor Finish ) I'm very happy with how it turned out.

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 2:12 pm

More floor staining pictures...

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 2:17 pm

A few more floor staining pictures

lilith_envy · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 2:19 pm

Absolutely Fantastic!
you've done a great job.
Will the wax have to be re-applied like a standard floor?

Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 2:45 pm

Wow! Pretty cool! Those floors look really neat. Hard to believe that it is just stained concrete. From the photos, some of them look like quality ceramic tile!

If you ever decide to visit Chile, your are truly welcome to come work that kind of magic on my floor! :lol:

- Stuart -

TomVan · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 3:06 pm

Lief,
I have to say you out did yourself. I do stained concrete for my real job and know the work you went through to get the results. Fantasic job.

Be aware of your top coat. Make sure once you see wear you seal it again or you will wear through the stain. Soycrete is on the bottom of my list because it does not penetrate as well as the others do. ( occasional Pealing) However if your top coat stays in tact, it will wear just fine. Just a heads up for the future.
You did do it correctly by having the two coats of wax on top. We call those sacrificial coats in the industry.

Once again Nice job
Peace
Tom

Jester · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:16 pm

Thanks guys! I plan on reapplying the "wax" as needed. Hopefully it well hold up well over time.

Ro · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 5:53 pm

Great looking floor, and nice tiling, jester!
keep up the good work and post them pix, we love it.

jbassino · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:02 pm

Nice floor !!
Great job

NativeLuv17 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:11 am

That's one sexy floor!!!

Jester · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:15 am

Here you can see how I painted the walls. I used pale creamy yellow for the base coat and then sponged on a slightly darker color. I painted the ceiling white. Because the space doesn't have much natural light I wanted it to feel light. You can also see some of the trim at I am currently putting up.

Jester · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:33 am

I am starting on my doors and I wanted to run my plans by you guys and make sure I’m not doing anything stupid. I have air locks between all of my rooms so I’m just using single doors.

The doors I am using are 1 3/8” sold core interior doors. I plan on adding a layer of 5/8 plywood. I’m mounting them on huge ball bearing hinges. I’m not using a lead sheet as I have some weight concerns.

I am using GM Trunk rubber for the two seals around the doors. I’m not planning on using magnetic seals as I’m quickly running out of money and I want the doorways to be as wide as possible. If I feel I need them later on I’ll add them.

I was originally thinking I wouldn’t use thresholds and just use drop seals as I really want to avoid have anything to trip over or lift rolling gear over. I compromised by ordering the pemko 2005 threshold because its only 1/2" tall, is wheelchair approved, and looks like it would be easy to roll stuff over. BTW I got an incredible deal off ebay for the thresholds. They are solid brass and normally sell for $81 a foot but I got 4 off ebay for $40 with free shipping

(see pic). I may need to change out the seals as they didn't come with the one they recommend for sound although they look similar. My question now is what is the best way to use it with the drop seals: fully-mortised, semi- mortised, or surface mounted? (see pics)

I am using LCN 4041 door closers. I am planning on not using door latches and just using surface mounted push/pull handles. My doors have no holes cut for handles as back when I bought them (long ago) people were recommending against using latches but I know Rod recommends using them in his book. Do I need them or can I just use the door closer?

What is the best way for the side seals and the top seal to meet? Is it better to have them meet at a 90 or a 45 degree angle?

Thanks for any help or advice you guys can give.

John Sayers · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:59 pm

Great stuff Leif - thanks for sharing.

stickey

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