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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 5:50 pm 
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What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use!

Greg

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 12:18 am 
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I'm thinking we may need to move the mic position since we're changing the angle of the speakers. I'm assuming that changes the head position as well.
Do one test (set of 3) with the mic in its original location, same as always, then another set of 3 with the mic in the new location, so I can compare and have a future new baseline with comparison to the old.

The new mic/head position will be 61" back from the face of the drywall on the front wall (above the window). I think that's the easiest place to measure it from, since the glass is angled and you won't have good access under the window in the future. So measure straight back form that drywall face, parallel to the floor, and drop down a vertical at 61". That's the new head-ear position (assuming you still want to go with the "minimalist desk" design that I showed you before). If you go with a bigger desk, you might not be able to get so far forward. That would still be OK acoustically, as long as you only go back a couple of inches, max, since your speakers have pretty smooth horizontal dispersion, and the sweet spot / RFZ area are both large enough for that. But it would be best if you can keep it to 61". It might be an idea to lay out the outline of that desk on the floor with masking tape, and set up an actual chair, to double-check that it will all work for you.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:54 am 
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Location: Baldwin, NY USA
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What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use!


Gregwor whats up! - it's looks like he may have used screws and big washers (you can sort of make them out from the photos) - I did the same thing on my silencer boxes. If you get a chance I had a question on my thread you may or may/not know the answer too (actually regarding silencer boxes).


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:57 am 
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Hey guys. Sorry I hadn't seen your post Greg.

yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:59 am 
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yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.


any glue as well or just the screws/washers?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:59 am 
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no glue, just a screw!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:10 am 
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Quick question, Frank: Did you already drill the holes in the shelf, for the anchor bolts? From the photos, it looks like you didn't do that yet. If you have not done it, then hold off on that, as there might be minor adjustments there...

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:12 am 
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That's exactly why I didn't sir! :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:59 am 
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Smart man! :thu:

Stay tuned....


- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:47 am 
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Latest mdat sent!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 1:51 pm 
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Latest mdat sent!
Got it! Thanks. Check your e-mail: there seems to be an issue with your right speaker. Maybe the tweeter?

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:07 pm 
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Will do. Might have crossed some wires.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:58 pm 
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Resent. Wires were indeed crossed.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 5:28 pm 
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:thu: Much better! That looks they way it should now.

By the way, you seem to have bumped your calibration settings: the left speaker is now 4 dB hotter than it was for all previous tests, and the right speaker is 5 dB hotter. Please adjust that for the next tests. It's OK for now, as I simply applied an offset to the data, but for next time it would be good to get the levels back how they were.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:52 am 
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No problem. I turned the output level back up. I had accidentally bumped the sensitivity switch on one of the speakers and it was messing me up. I figured it out.


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