John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Kieth, It's just a standard wall with 2 rows of cats which in the long run if he was to add 3 layers of sheetrock and 2 layers of mdf sandwiched inbetween the sheethrock the wall could handle the weight with no problem. But it also looks like those are not standard 2x4's either. What size is the lumber your using in that wall John?

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Doni Bieler
Your Local Handyman
Ah man not again. Damn that's gonna hurt

hey john, i'm no expert but since no one has answered i believe you want to put the rigid insulation flush with the front (or maybe leaving a very slight inset) and leaving most of the gap behind.

because i think that having the absorption away from the wall with a gap will make it even a bit more effective. something to do with affecting longer wavelengths better. if this is wrong someone please chime in ...

Guys,

I work for a sawmilling / timber processing company here in New Zealand.

That blue lumber is a structual product we make for the Australian market called "Design Pine".

It is Radiata Pine - fingerjoint clears-pressure treated and painted/primed.

Total overkill for my walls but it is some seconds I got from work and is great to work with because every length is dead straight.

The size I am using for my walls is 66mmx42mm and will only have one layer of 5/8th board attached to it as its the "inside" part of my "inside out walls"

JG

Doni - what you called cats - we call noggins - our building codes stipulate cats at 1.2m (4') spacing on any framed wall.

you are going to add the plaster John? - you've got these guys confused

cheers
john

Cats, noggins, dwangs, fire blocks - too dang many terms for the same "dwang" thing...

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Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...

LOL aint that the truth Steve. Like the IRC they should make a standardized termonology building glossary so everyone knows what everyone else is talking about no matter what part of the world they are from.

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Doni Bieler
Your Local Handyman
Ah man not again. Damn that's gonna hurt

Yup - sheet rock, rock, gyp-board, gypsum, gypsum wallboard, plasterboard, gyp-rock, etc -

then there's wafer wood, OSB, Strand board, etc, and no two places can agree on which is which half the time; according to one definition/description, OSB should have no visible, large chunks - yet I see stacks of the stuff with big chunks showing (instead of long shavings) and a big sign calling it OSB -

These guys

http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publication ... ywood.html

At least call the stuff what it is, but Home Depot doesn't seem to know.

At least most tradesmen work in localized areas enough that the local terms are familiar... Steve

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Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...

John,
Dwangs here in New Zealand!!~
Yep, just glueing the rubber strips top and bottom then I will screw on the plasterboard and stand the walls.
Will get a few snaps to show the rubber for everyone today.
JG

Heres the rubber glued to the top and bottom of the walls, very colour co-ordinated we are down under!!

I'm a little skeptical about the rubber tops and bottoms, John... It this a proven solution?

Hi Keith,

There are a couple of studios (several infact) on Johns "Studio's Under Construction" link that use this method. Check out "Siliva Productions", "Leftbank" and "GuruLand" as working examples with photo's of this method.

http://www.johnlsayers.com/Studio/Mainp ... ruland.htm

John also recomended this method when I used his phone service.

I can actually see how it will work, especially with a existing floor like mine that is slightly uneven and has some old glue lines from where the carpet was ripped up.

You have to imangine the walls are cut very tight (We measured each Stud) so they will compress the rubber top and bottom when stood into place. I actually expect to have to hammer them into there final posistion with a rubber claw hammer once the walls are lifted.

The rubber is also flush with the back edge of the lumber to allow a nice small gap to caulk in the front once the walls are up.

Keith, all this is pretty new to me and the problem is I suppose you never really know how it's going to work untill it's finished or if you have done it before!!.

All I can do is have some faith in some of the advice I have been given / paid for and as the shoe man says "Just do It"

JG

I see. I'm surely not questioning our genius host... ...but am I understanding that the wall frames will not be secured to the ceiling/joists/trusses or the floor slab, but rather will be "wedged in" with a rubber mallet, held up by the friction of the spring-loaded rubber?

Hi Keith,

Yep, I think that's the general idea however we were going to look at attaching them to the floor at a couple of stategic spots depending how well the walls were "wedged" in place. Problem is the nails will short out the system some what but it maybe unavoidable.

Because all the walls are conected at the corners making basically a very heavy box isolated top and bottom with rubber I am hoping it will be pretty near impossible for the walls to move once they are all connected and wedged in place.

JG

Raising the inside out walls, took a mallet to get them in place but they are as snug as now. Very heavy - work out - me on the left and the bro!!

maybe i'm no sherlock holmes, but that must be you on the right ... tell me i'm wrong!