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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:31 am
Posts: 2
Location: In the hills near Lismore
My name is Matt, I have read rough this forum a zillion times over the years and have really appreciated all the wisdom Shared by the contributors.

I am a muso who has been into home recording for about 15 years. After stopping for about a decade whilst I had kids I am getting back into the swing.

So....I have a colourbond double garage that I am going to convert 3/4 into a music space. This is only going to be a hobby studio, I have plenty of friends with high quality studios very near. In saying that, I would still like to think that I can churn out decent demos and perhaps even use some of the recordings (especially sax) on projects I may take to the pro studios. I will be recording mostly rock and blues/pop, using mic'd instruments (no live drums).

I live on acreage, and to be honest I don't have a real worry about noise...the house is about 20 metres away from the shed and I have jammed with full band in the shed before. What I would like is:
A) to do a bit of insulating for heat/cold
B) partition off one section for recording, jamming with band or relaxing and listening to vinyl

My thought are to construct a wool insulated staggered stud frame and gyprock wall set up. Leave concrete slab and just cover (a bit of carpet in one section, a bit of vinyl in another).
I will also probably insulate and double gyprock sheet the roof, following the existing roofline, but add a whirlybird (which I can shut off if necessary).

A bit of noise reduction would be nice, but I don't need to be anal about it.

I started looking at the ways sound will leak from this set up, and the door seems the likely weak link, so I began investigating a double door/ air lock system...but then I wondered if that would be overkill for my needs?
A) what do you think about my approach?
B) what would be the best way to address the door issue?
Thoughts/ suggestions greatly appreciated.
Matt
(Sorry for the long winded post)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 9:13 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:17 am
Posts: 7574
Location: Santiago, Chile
Hi Matt, and welcome to the forum! :)

Quote:
I live on acreage, and to be honest I don't have a real worry about noise...
... going out, but how about coming in? Things like thunder, rain, hail, wind, aircraft flying over, dogs barking and other animal noises, lawnmowers and similar, cars arriving/leaving, etc. There are numerous sounds that could trash your perfect "best ever" take...

Quote:
My thought are to construct a wool insulated staggered stud frame
Staggered stud is likely not necessary, since you will be building this inside an existing shell. The "existing shell" is your outer leaf, so you only need an inner leaf, which is normally just a single stud frame with drywall on only one side.

Quote:
but add a whirlybird (which I can shut off if necessary)
That's not a good plan for ventilation. To start with, it only takes care of "out-going", but since your studio will be sealed air-tight, there will be no place for air to come in! So you whirlybird will spin madly but do nothing useful. Second, that's basically just a large diameter pipe that passes through both of your isolation leaves, and therefore totally destroys your isolation! :shock:

What you really need is to put in a couple of ducts with a fan in one of them, and silencer boxes at the points where the ducts penetrate the walls. You should also calculate the air volume that you need to move (cubic feet per minute) and how fast you need to move it (feet per second). Etc.

Quote:
I started looking at the ways sound will leak from this set up, and the door seems the likely weak link, so I began investigating a double door/ air lock system...but then I wondered if that would be overkill for my needs?
... which leads to the 64,000 dollar question. How much do you need? In other words, how many decibels of isolation do you need? You mention "some but not a lot": however you can't plug that into the equations for calculating isolation! You need actual numbers.

Quote:
B) what would be the best way to address the door issue?
The door is just one part of the complete isolation system. There's no point in giving the door more attention than anything else. Nor less attention, either. The entire isolation plan should be done to the same level. If you need (for example( 40 dB of isolation, then your door has to be designed to give you 40dB, and so do your walls, and the ceiling, and the ventilation system, and the windows (if any), and the electrical system: each part must be designed with the goal of 40 dB in mind (or 50, or 60, or whatever number you come up with in the end). Having a door that gives you 50 dB when the rest is only designed for 40 means that you wasted money on the door. And having a door that gives you 40 when the rest is designed for 50 means that you wasted money on the rest! Isolation is only as good as the weakest link.


- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:31 am
Posts: 2
Location: In the hills near Lismore
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.


Soundman2020 wrote:
Hi Matt, and welcome to the forum! :)


Quote:
My thought are to construct a wool insulated staggered stud frame
Staggered stud is likely not necessary, since you will be building this inside an existing shell. The "existing shell" is your outer leaf, so you only need an inner leaf, which is normally just a single stud frame with drywall on only one side.



Quote:
but add a whirlybird (which I can shut off if necessary)
That's not a good plan for ventilation. To start with, it only takes care of "out-going", but since your studio will be sealed air-tight, there will be no place for air to come in! So you whirlybird will spin madly but do nothing useful. Second, that's basically just a large diameter pipe that passes through both of your isolation leaves, and therefore totally destroys your isolation! :shock:


What you really need is to put in a couple of ducts with a fan in one of them, and silencer boxes at the points where the ducts penetrate the walls. You should also calculate the air volume that you need to move (cubic feet per minute) and how fast you need to move it (feet per second). Etc.

Will also investigate this, thanks


- Stuart -

Thanks, will ditch the staggered stud idea.


My thought was to have a vent in the gyprock roof feeding into a baffle Box which would then vent the air to the ceiling vent (whirlybird). Did not consider air getting in...thanks for the tip.



Thanks for taking the time to reply.


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