John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

So, is this basically what we're looking at? Pix are great, but sometimes hard to see perspective.

You don't want anything making hard contact with your floated floor (other than the walls on top of it) so you either need to leave a gap or (in some cases where abrasion/impact aren't a problem) use celotex. A doorway isn't one of those places though - check my crude drawing and let me know if it's close... Steve

Close, but they're both floating floors. The main difference, is the CR is on additional blocks from leveling. The iso room is 2x4 framing on 1/2" rubber pieces.

OK, gettin' closer now; is the 2" gap you're referring to a horizontal one, as in not only are your two floors almost 3" different in height, but also there is a horizontal gap between them of around 2" ?

What's left to put on top of each floor, or are you done except for thin flooring?

Finally, am I correct in assuming that the two facing sides (one from each floor) are framing lumber on edge at this point?

And AFTER finally, will there be two doors there (one in each frame) or just one, and which floor will it (if only one door) be on, the higher one or the lower one?

Hey, this is fun - from now on, you guys answer and I'll ask the questions There, that's much better... Steve

Horizontal (between the 2 floors is about 3"), Vertical (height between them is about 2 3/4").

Flooring...laminate hardwoods; eg: pergo, shaw, or something similar.

Yes the floor framing is 2x4's on edge (for strength, and conduit runs). And 2 layers 3/4" subfloor.

Doors, there will be only one door on this frame. It will be on the iso room side, swinging into the iso room. I have yet to frame the wall for the other door, that will create a sound lock.

Attached is the drawing...

It sounds like you may be able to just add a piece of 2x4 and a piece of 1x4 to the edge of one of the floors (even with the top of the existing floor frame) and run your flooring to within 1/2" of the other floor - if you really think that one of your floors might move horizontally, you could finish the gap with a piece of homosote. This way, you'd have a gap of around 1/2" between floors horizontally, which you'd probably need to use a crevice tool on occasionally to keep stuff from filling in the gap -

As to the height difference, I wasn't kidding about the bright yellow paint (it's called Federal Safety Yellow in most places) - then, paint a sign in letters as tall as the step that says "step up" -

Or, if that's not the effect you want you could always add 3" to your iso floor... Steve

I was actually considering putting a 2x6 and then another 2x6 ripped down to the proper height to level w/ CR floor. There will be a small gap. Wasn't sure what to put in the "gap" between without shorting out the 2 floors together.

As far as moving one of the floors, you're kidding right!? Not with the floor and walls already built on. (just a couple thousand pounds...) They're not going anywhere.


As far as the yellow paint...Let's go one step further (pardon the pun), I'm thinking of adding tape lights.

Thanks,

Aaron

Be sure to use a sound actuated controller for the tape lights

Sound actuated controller. Hmmm...

I've been searching threshold seals, and have found a few interesting sites. They've probably already been posted at some point in time, but here goes...

http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/sea ... sholds.htm

http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/seals.htm

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... d_565a.pdf

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/doors ... rseals.pdf

Hmmm...

Aaronw:
Here's another one. (BTW, reading every page of the catalog is better than trying to use the index to go right to what you want)
http://www.zerointernational.com/

Yikes! I like the product, especially the "product code STC 2".

I just called them to get an idea on price, big $$$!!!

Here's the "SLRP" they gave me:

770: $19.29 ft.
367A: $80.41 (32" door)
564: $7.06 ft.
119W: $1.93 ft Bronze & 3.10 ft Stainless Steel
950: $137.06

They gave me a local distributor here in Nashville: Sterling Sales & Marketing... 615-373-1878.

It took me a couple of minutes to find out what "STC 2" was.
It's "SOUND TRAP-52 STC" which consists of product codes "564, 367, 770, 119W, 950"
http://www.zerointernational.com/educat ... /page7.pdf

I meant to put that in there. Oops Thanks.

Here's also another diagram from page 3 that shows layout and parts.

http://www.zerointernational.com/produc ... g.asp?pg=3

If you download the catalog, it's page 10.

The thing about this particular model, is that you can't use door stops w/ it. The seals and assembly are used as the door stops. So this would be perfect if your building your own frames. The cost though, is little out of my budget. Considering I have about 6 doors at the moment that will require them, maybe a couple more.


Aaron

Back to windows for a minute...



Steve,

Any luck on finishing this drawing? What about the other 3 sides (sides and top). I wouldn't think you could just "lay it loose" without it possibly coming down at a later time.

Thanks.

Sorry, haven't even had a chance to open the file in the last month, let alone the week I so optimistically mentioned - Gonna be tight for at least another week too, I'll be in Phoenix for consultation during my next days off. I might be able to get some time on it during night shifts if it's slow, but that's sort of a "crapshoot" -

Here's a quick concept til I get time for the CAD version, hopefully it will help start an argument at least

Steve