John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

It's been a long time since I posted but I only just now have a space worth doing anything with. Nothing "pro" here, just a listening, tracking, mixing room for me. As I develop my ideas I will provide more details but I don't want to get sidetracked or overwhelmed so I want to start with some basic concepts. If these particular questions have been asked before - my apologies. I've used the search function here and elsewhere and just can't seem to resolve my questions. This will be a DIY project and the intent is floor to ceiling traps.

The standard face size for superchunk traps is 24" or 34". These require "legs" of 17" or 24". Two of my corners (diagonally opposite) cannot accomodate that size. 12" "legs" is about all I can do. Would that reduce the volume of the trap to the point of ineffectiveness?

RELATED QUESTIONS - Dependent on answers I guess.

Could they be made asymmetric (non-isosceles) to increase material and space volume or is the 45 degree angle facing the room critical?

How about 12" square "blocks"? This would double the volume of material and space but the faces would be parallel and perpendicular to all walls. Again is the orientation of the face important?

How about smaller in the two obstructed corners and full size in the other two? Is treatment symmetry that critical - will it throw the left/right balance at the mix position off?


Again if these questions have been dealt with before I apologize. Point me at 'em. I'm just chasing thoughts around trying to understand concepts and approaches before I spend money on materials. I've been doing a lot of reading and have answered most of the simple stuff for myself - I think.

Thanks to all who jump in.


lou

could you draw up a floor plan? it would help to visualize this a bit. in general, you want as much symmetry up front and on the sides of the mix position as possible. even if you have to go with some smaller vertical corner absorbers. also consider the wall-ceiling corners as places for superchunks and the wall-floor is useful if you have the space.

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Glenn

I really don't want to get too far into the layout yet. The objective is to try and validate (or blow up) the concept of smaller or asymmetric or square corner traps. For the sake of discussion the room is 10X20 with an eight foot ceiling, near enough. One corner of each end could accommodate a full size (34" face) Superchunk but the other corner has obstructions (windows and a built-in bookcase) on one or both walls limiting one leg to 12".

The options, as I see them, are dependent on the answer to the treatment symmetry question and the necessity of a 45 degree angle for corner traps. I could match all corners to the smaller size. I could double the absorber volume if I used square columns instead of triangular. I could go big trap on one corner, small on the other (and that would be reversed on the far end - diagonally opposing obstructed corners). I could use standard size panels instead of chunks but I would not be able to maintain the 45 degree angle - so match them ...?

As soon as I figure out Sketchup I'll draw it up because I have windows and a door to deal with after this first conundrum is resolved. I plan on typical flat wall panels and a cloud but I don't want to complicate this first bit yet.

Thanks,


lou

Pardon me...trying something.

Moderators - Feel free to delete, fix or tell me how to do this correctly. First day with Sketchup and it's probably obvious. Given that, it's a fairly accurate representation of the space I'm going to be working with. Assuming you can see the file, my imaginary resident is looking away from what will be the front wall. The opening is a closet. That front wall is the first place I want to treat and the subject of my questions.

I hope this works. Kill the whole post if it didn't.

Thanks,


lou

assuming the end with the big closet would be the best location for the front of the room, here's one idea.

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Glenn

Thank you, gullfo. All of your guesses about the various penetrations and appurtenances are correct with the exception of the (closet?) by the entry door. That is actually a floor to ceiling built-in bookcase. I'm going to put stereo system components and my vinyl collection there. My thoughts on the early reflection absorbers and cloud are similar to yours. Basically fill the window and match it opposite. I did not want to obstruct the closet like you did with the left side superchunk. That is the area where I only have 12" to deal with.

My thoughts on that end were to use smaller chunks in the corners (or smaller left, regular right). The closet has bi-fold doors. I could replace these with slat doors with a regular 4" panel mounted on each and additional trapping inside. (I still want to use the closet for case and misc. storage.) Again there are some symmetry issues with the closet being offset left and I don't know whether to ignore that or try to counter it with the "weight balance" of treatment side to side.

I plan to do the front end first and then assess the back end by sound and budget.

Sorry about the quality ( ) of the Sketchup work. It is close dimensionally but not spot on. The windows are standard 36"X48" - one is a double unit.

Thanks for the input - nice clean drawing. Any further thoughts are more than welcome.


lou

i think if you can afford to block a small portion of the bookcase on that left side, it would be better to have the larger absorption. the book case could then have some doors over it with the front wall absorbers on it. you may then be able to move your desk back a bit so you have easier access to the bookshelf.

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Glenn

Maybe I explained that poorly. The bookcase is the extension next to the entry door (which you labelled correctly). It would be on your left as you walk in. The space off the front wall is the closet. It is about two feet deep or so and extends inside to either side of the opening. That closet is offset as shown and that is what is complicating the symmetry and chunk size issues. At the back of the room where the bookcase is I'm not so sure it's all that critical.


lou

ok, so close off a portion of the closet?

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Glenn

Symmetricize the thing, eh? I'll take a look at it. I didn't really want to do any "construction" but I suppose I could. Just how critical is the symmetry factor on the front wall?


lou

Symmetry can be defined less by the absolute shape and more by the balance achieved. In this case, since you have a pocket off-center in front of you, getting a reasonable amount of coverage to balance both sides can only help. Too many times people built things asymmetrical and end up with low-mid imbalance that can drive you wacky. Not withstanding the info you got from studio tips...

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Glenn

Thanks for the help, Glenn. It is very much appreciated. I've pretty well decided to go with 12" square floor to ceiling columns in the corners and I will mount three 2'X4'X4" panels evenly across the front wall as well as a 6'X4'X4" cloud. The windows will get sheetrock plugs with 2" panels filling them completely. Symmetry issues will be mostly behind the mix position so hopefully not as critical. I'll deal with that after I get the foundation in place. Maybe a big gobo behind the mix position?

Anyway - thanks again. Now to find the cheapest 703.


lou

If you haven't already, checkout Bob Golds absorption coefficients page because there are a number of comparable products which may be more readily available. Rochester NH seems to have a number of building supply centers so that may be the first place to check.

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Glenn

Lowe's can't or won't order it. I haven't checked Home Cheapo yet. We have another long established supply house, unfortunately with a "not cheap" rep but I'll check. I also know a guy in the insulation business that is looking into it. I kind of used "703" as a generic term. I definitely want the fiberglass as opposed to rockwool and 4 inch thickness will make for less cutting for my square superchunks but I'm not stuck on the OC product. Cheaper is gooder.


lou

Maybe you might need a trip down to the Boston area...

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Glenn