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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:06 pm 
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Thanks, will decide shortly - but leaning towards just building risers if we need to at a later date.

What about acoustic board underlay under the laminate that must help somewhat towards impact noise?

Also what are your thought on the this silencer that the previous designer did?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:58 pm 
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gullfo wrote:
for the floor, if you have Rod's 2nd edition book on home recording studio construction, he has put forth a nice option: put down 2" of 48kg/m3 rigid insulation then on top, 2x 12mm plywood, then your flooring (say 12mm engineered wood). this all sits within the inner isolation walls and is separated from them by about 12mm. if you think you need the walls isolated as well, he has an example using Mason Industry ND isolators on a sleeper to isolate the walls from the floor. this combination should give you substantial isolation but will take more work.

:idea:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:11 pm 
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Quote:
Also what are your thought on the this silencer that the previous designer did?
Not very good! It does not force the airflow to change direction, and there is a direct sound path from inlet to outlet. It is also rather complicated to build, and the box construction is unnecessarily complex.

Use one of the many tried-and-tested designs here on the forum. Simple, and very effective.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:19 pm 
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gullfo wrote:
gullfo wrote:
for the floor, if you have Rod's 2nd edition book on home recording studio construction, he has put forth a nice option: put down 2" of 48kg/m3 rigid insulation then on top, 2x 12mm plywood, then your flooring (say 12mm engineered wood). this all sits within the inner isolation walls and is separated from them by about 12mm. if you think you need the walls isolated as well, he has an example using Mason Industry ND isolators on a sleeper to isolate the walls from the floor. this combination should give you substantial isolation but will take more work.


Yeah! That's an idea. Was concerned about the loss of the height though, especially if we did the CR as well?

Soundman2020 wrote:
Quote:
Also what are your thoughts on the this silencer that the previous designer did?
Not very good! It does not force the airflow to change direction, and there is a direct sound path from inlet to outlet. It is also rather complicated to build, and the box construction is unnecessarily complex.

Use one of the many tried-and-tested designs here on the forum. Simple, and very effective.

- Stuart -


Thanks will do, just wanted to confirm my suspicions that this designer doesn't know what he is doing!

I spent most of last night reading on here about Hvac / ventilation - it's very complex and varies so much between installations.

Is there a unit that does both ventilation and cooling / heating - or is it 2 separate duct works and a silencers job?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:40 pm 
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One2one2 wrote:
Yeah! That's an idea. Was concerned about the loss of the height though, especially if we did the CR as well?


it's only about 3" (75mm) when its done and you have about 9'2" (2.8m) below the ceiling drywall

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 12:11 am 
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gullfo wrote:
it's only about 3" (75mm) when its done and you have about 9'2" (2.8m) below the ceiling drywall


Ok, so not that much lost, would we have to change the length and width by 3" to keep it at 1:1.26:1.68?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:34 am 
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i think that the difference in ceiling height is minor enough to leave the rest of the dimensions as-is. 1:1.29:1.73 assuming a 8'11" (2.72m) height. you could pull in the length 5" and width 1" to reset to 1:1.26:1.68. Maybe Stuart or John B could comment.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:32 am 
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Hi guys

For the last few days a have been planning out the electrical, lighting, HVAC / ventilation and silencers side of the install - will post the plans shortly.

One other concern I do have with the design is the front window, as we will be doing a fair bit of post production as well as recording.

I was thinking of having a pull down projector screen that goes over the window, but a very much prefer LCD over projection, which made me think that maybe I could get some kind of slide down LCD bracket of some sort - but with a lot of googling I can only find slide sideways brackets (mainly used in caravan's/ RV's etc)

Anybody aware how this as been solved before?

Images attached is a 50" lcd on an angle above the window, but I think I would get a bit of saw neck this way! Possibly make the control window smaller so can get the LCD down lower?
I will also have 2 x 21" LCD for my DAW, which was thinking of sinking into a desk on an angle so not to block sight of the live room.

You thoughts?

Thanks


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CR with 50inch LCD (Custom).jpg
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CR with 50inch LCD v2 (Custom).jpg
CR with 50inch LCD v2 (Custom).jpg [ 166.79 KiB | Viewed 351 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:05 am 
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check out some of the swing arm supports which may be usable to put the TV up and out of the way. or conceptually, you could have it on a wheeled frame to roll it into place when needed, hook up the power cord and single HDMI cable and you're good. this way you could also use the TV elsewhere in the studio if needed. http://www.ergotron.com/Products/tabid/ ... fault.aspx

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:48 am 
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Thanks, gave me an idea of having an electric lift mount - like in bedrooms - were the TV pops up from the end of the bed in a cabinet of sorts.

When looking for that I found these

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=108
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=95

UK company
http://www.ascendingvision.co.uk/acatalog/TV_Lift_Mechanisms.html

I think the lift is probably best, I could build it into the back of workstation / desk or simply behind the desk - press a button and the screen pops up!

Brilliant!!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:59 am 
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keep in mind you probably still want to hear your monitors so consider the placement closer to the window than the desk. maybe there's an option also to have it lower instead of up? it's probably a screw gear drive of some kind so the manufacturer may have some ideas.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 6:32 am 
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Yeah the ascending vision ones can be wall or ceiling mounted as well, so it could be lowered.

If I lowered it - the cloud would have to be shorter - how would that effect the acoustics?

Obviously I don't want to compromise the sound over something fairly cosmetic like this.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 8:53 am 
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Your cloud should have around 12-14" (300-350mm) air gap all around so it should fit. If not moving the front edge back a bit more should be ok.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:56 am 
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gullfo wrote:
i think that the difference in ceiling height is minor enough to leave the rest of the dimensions as-is. 1:1.29:1.73 assuming a 8'11" (2.72m) height. you could pull in the length 5" and width 1" to reset to 1:1.26:1.68. Maybe Stuart or John B could comment.


Hi Gullfo

When measuring the length and width of the room, what are you measuring from to get the ratio 1:1.26:1.68? Is it the main double plasterboard rectangle walls or the from the splayed walls for the widtch and from the soffit and bass traps for the length?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 4:23 am 
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the drywall (or other isolation boundary) is the measuring point. the treatments, even hard ones, are typically not considered in the ratio (although of course they do impact the room response...)

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