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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:47 am 
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looks good!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:12 pm 
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Thank you Glenn!

The sketch could not have been conceived without your assistance. :D

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:19 am 
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Sorry I didn't get back sooner. My concept for a sawtooth Cloud is as in the picture attached.
The top side sawtooths are covered with mdf or plywood sheets, and the unit filled with FG as in a normal hardbacked cloud.
It provides the modification of the local floor ceiling modes - much the same as using a sawtooth configuration of splayed walls at the side instead of splaying the entire wall - but allows the cloud to hang horizontal while still providing reflection for a RFZ as would an angled cloud..

Attachment:
Sawtooth Cloud.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:20 am 
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Looks different BriHar.

I am going to go with the two (2) clouds.

Have you tested your concept? Hope it works and catches on. :D

A quick update; had a fight with the router today......the router won (lost a piece of wood).


The wood pieces for the frame of the cloud are cut.

Bought the MDF for the clouds. The MDF piece for the little cloud is cut.

The big cloud piece was dimensionally to big for the MDF that is available here in Sweden.

I cut a piece for the big cloud that was around 230 mm short of how big the cloud should be. I will center the piece that I cut on the
wood frame and then place the remaining 115 (x2=230) mm MDF stripes on the side of MDF piece that is already cut and then screw
them into the clouds wood frame.

Q) Glenn, since there is so little MDF remaining is it even worth placing the remaining 230mm of MDF on the cloud?
I could leave the sides without the MDF. Would that be good for bass absorption? Would it cause flutter/mode problems?


Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:18 pm 
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Useg Diaz-Granados wrote:
A quick update; had a fight with the router today......the router won (lost a piece of wood).


Rather a bit of wood than a bit of anatomy :wink:

... unless of course you're Pinocchio :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:57 pm 
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: BriHar!
Could not have articulated it better myself.

It went better today. :D

I finished routing the pieces for the small cloud.

Hope to get the rest of the routing done for the broadband absorbers and the cloud
tomorrow. After that is time for sanding and varnishing.

Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:01 pm 
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Q) Glenn, could you be kind and answer the last question I asked :mrgreen: ?

Got a few more questions Glenn related to the JohnH clouds
and their routed slot distances.

Q1) I noticed that the distance in between the slots on the JohnH vary depending on the size of the cloud.

My cloud dimensions differ when compared to the JohnH clouds.

Is their any formula I can use in order to calculate the slot distances accurately?

Q2) I did not want to compromise the cloud(s) weight limit since I have to adhere to my ceilings weight threshold;
so I had no choice but to go with the 12 mm MDF instead of 16 mm.

How will the reduction of the MDF's density ( I presume that it will) affect the two (2) clouds overall efficiency?

Q3) Made a sketch of the hangers that will hang under the flush mounts wood frame.

What should the minimum be of the string that the hangers hang from be (before the insulation start that is)?

I have a 200mm gap for the air intake, is that enough Glenn?

Finished routing the two (2) clouds. 2 pieces remain to complete the broadband absorbers. :D

More sanding has to be done before I start varnishing the wood.

Here are some pics of the routed wood pieces, the dimmer (put it up to test before placing drywall) and the holder for
the star lights.

Got the right star lights this time, trying to arrange a date with the electrician in order to completing the electric work.



Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 1:10 pm 
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the slots are just positions on a QRD p=7 pattern. not really critical. the 12mm is lighter and may not provide as much shift but best guess is test and see. 300mm would be better but 200mm should work. LF like wider openings. if you go with 300mm is that a problem?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:38 am 
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Thank you Glenn! :D

300 mm should not be a problem as far as the air intake for the flush mount stands.


I used the search function in order to comprehend what you mean with a QRD 7 pattern without understanding anything :oops: .

Could you be so kind and explain to me how the QRD pattern works?

I need some insight into what you think about the hanger sketch (minimum length of cord etc) and
on the question concerning leaving a total of 230mm on the sides of the large cloud without any MDF (only insulation) Glenn.

Q) I recalling seeing some of your hanger sketches Glenn where the hangers hang right behind the
audio monitors (near fields).

Is their any particular way of approaching hanging the hangers behind the monitors (outside of making top and bottom ports on the flush mounts)
in order to ensure that a proper amount of air cools down the monitors?

An update; we tried to install the star lights a second time AND THEY WORK!!!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Here are some pics of the star light dimmer and the corresponding lights (they are place towards the back of the studio on each of the
two (2) walls).



Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 8:42 am 
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I been waiting patiently without getting a reply from you Glenn :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

:horse:

Vacation maybe?????? :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Anyway I need yet another question answered that concerns caulking.

According to the information I received in this forum caulking should be done
where drywall touches the floor, the ceiling or another wall.

The guy in this youtube clip uses another approach, he caulks even the areas where the different sheets of drywall meet?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf6ExtPR9Xs

I would loooovvveee to hear what the honorable members in this forum viewpoints are in order to determine if this guys approach (the youtube clip)
is over kill or not; (Glenn maybe :?: ).

An update; hope to buy drywall tomorrow, the electricity is done, the cloud pieces are sanded (and looking MUCH BETTER lol) but are not varnished yet.

Finishing up some prep work so we can start putting up the dry wall (with all the delays it feels like it will NEVER (lol) happen. :wink:

I'll post some pictures soon :shock:.

Glenn, I need you my brotha!



Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 9:06 am 
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Quote:
I would loooovvveee to hear what the honorable members in this forum viewpoints are in order to determine if this guys approach (the youtube clip) is over kill or not;
Not overkill: very recommended. The best way to do it is to caulk five times (assuming two layers of drywall on the studs): before you put the framing in place, you put one bead of caulk down the center-line, one close to the left edge, and one close to the right edge. (That applies to each piece of framing that touches the wall or floor.) Then, after you put up each layer of drywall, you put one bead of caulk all around the edge, after you put the backer rod in place. So each leaf is caulked five times. You do that to get the hermetic seal that is so important to proper isolation.


- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 9:24 am 
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Long time no hear Stuart.

Thank you for the clarification, assistance and guidance; it makes my life easier (and trust me Stuart, I love comfort). :wink:

Tried some white wine from Chile by the way (don't remember the brand); it was excellent (a little to DRY for my taste but other then that minor glitch it was very good).

I wish that the Country that I was born in (Colombia) was known for a different product then they are known for producing.

Supply and demand ya know, I guess the Honorable Englishmen Adam Smith was right; the invisible hand will supply the demand of any given market.(LOL)
:|


Sincerely,

Useg Diaz-Granados


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 9:52 am 
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"you do that to get a hermetic seal"

How come my food spoils when I leave it in my room that has this, who was it that used this phrase first...Phillip Newel?

A hermetic seal applies to food for the most part, and how it might maintain a longer shelf life under certain conditions.

To assume that anyone of us can approach this with a structure, and get it right...well, they die from lack of air, and the chips go with them :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 9:59 am 
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Quote:
A hermetic seal applies to food for the most part,
Actually, "hermetic" just means "airtight", and is used very, very frequently in the world of mechanics, not to mention most branches of the physical sciences.... :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:09 am 
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I'm not a mechanic....maybe that is where I fail to see the comparison.


I understand where you go when you use this word...I am just pretty certain, it is a mark that seldom get's hit.

But let us all shoot for the high mark anyway...


God save my chips...;)

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