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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:47 pm 
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How eloquent Brian! Is it a case of nobody having the answer to this question?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:39 am 
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TheFrenchVoice wrote:
How eloquent Brian! Is it a case of nobody having the answer to this question?



Sir, it is Brien...not Brian or Bryan or any other configuration.

An overhead anything, really, should be mounted hard to the upper surface. Now I have no idea what a lateral movement means in respect to something that is mounted hard. Most of what we talk about and do around this forum is to make certain that nothing is vibrating, or shaking.

I think if you would have made a suggestion as to what exactly your mounting methods were, then we could have narrowed it down and said "do this or do not use that".


But that failed to see the light of day in respect to this item.

To reiterate...an overhead cloud does not have movement, it is by design, heavy and should not move.

Does that answer the question? :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Right, BriEn it is then, apologies for that! Answer my question it does indeed, ta very much! I was (obviously wrongly) always under the impression that clouds were supposed to be hanged with wires so that they would float hence my question. But now that you stated that they should be hard-mounted to the ceiling then I can go ahead with building them the way I wanted which is brilliant. Again, I'm very grateful for your input!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:53 am 
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You could use wire but the hardware required brings in more moving parts that could, over time, weaken the eyelets in either the joist above or the cloud frame below, to become a hazard.

I want to say that most folks, that I have seen and I did mine this way as well, in a confined area, use heave duty (1/4 inch to 3/8 inch ) crown bolt turnbuckle hook / eye hardware.

This bracket will maintain a strong connection and allows to "level" the cloud with the turnbuckle, while reducing moving parts and increasing load capacity.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:01 am 
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What you're saying makes sense Brien, especially as it allows for adjustements in the angle of the clouds. Again, thank you very much for the time you take to help out - what you and the other knowledgeable people - and John for putting this forum together also - is very commendable. I'll post updates when... there are some!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:49 am 
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gullfo wrote:
it looks like your slat resonator is facing the wrong way... make it a "saw tooth" so reflections are moved past your seating position. since you're putting hanging broadband absorbers over head. i'd split the cloud into 3 sections over the desk and leave about 100mm gap between them. hard back, absorptive face.


Glenn, finally found the time to reflect your comment re. resonators and amended my plans - is it what you had in mind? Cheers!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:40 am 
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gullfo wrote:
it looks like your slat resonator is facing the wrong way... make it a "saw tooth" so reflections are moved past your seating position. since you're putting hanging broadband absorbers over head. i'd split the cloud into 3 sections over the desk and leave about 100mm gap between them. hard back, absorptive face.


By the way Glenn, I think that when you posted the above you were under the impression that the plan was one of a CR. As it is an ISO booth would you still go for what you recommended, ie. 3 clouds, or go for a single large cloud hard back, absorptive face? Incidentally could you explain the reasoning behind the splitting of clouds into sections? Just being curious and wanting to learn, but I understand if you don't have the time to explain, you're a busy man!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:14 pm 
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And while I'm at it in the questions department...
Do you guys think I'd be better of with the big superchunk on the top right of the plan as in version 1 or with a smaller superchunk and hangers as in version 2?

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version 1

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version 2


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 1:56 am 
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Door frame finally done - was a right pain in the arse to do but looks superb (done in american walnut veneered mdf), drywall going up, feels like I'm eating acoustic sealant, reordered a LOT - a tip for peeps based in Europe: AC 50 900ml box of 9 for £3.50 a cartridge, the cheapest I've found
http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk ... c50900box9
And no, I don't work there! Pix to come as soon as I find the time to snap.
Meanwhile, if anyone fancies chiming in about my question re. super-superchunk vs. smaller chunk + hangers feel free :wink: Cheers!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:35 am 
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If anyone at all knows about big superchunk re. smaller superchunk plus hangers please let me know - I'm now ready to put them on and could do with a knowledgeable answer... Cheers!
PS; just in case, the room size is 4.20m x 2.50m, ceiling height is 2.63m, and to reiterate, it is a ISO booth for recording voice overs, vocals and any instruments that can fit in it, including drums - cheers again :shot:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:59 pm 
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Errr... Boing boing?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:35 pm 
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And boing again...


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:41 pm 
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Quote:
Do you guys think I'd be better of with the big superchunk on the top right of the plan as in version 1 or with a smaller superchunk and hangers as in version 2
?To be honest, of those two options I'd go with the plain old superchunk. A "mini-superchunk" stuck right in the corner doesn't make much sense. With a suprchunk, it's not the part in the corner that does most of the work, but the front face. Insulation is a velocity-based device, and right up against the surface the velocity is zero or close to zero for all but the most highly grazing waves. So a tiny triangle in the corner isn't going to be very effective as a superchunk.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:59 pm 
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Stuart, I thank you very much.


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