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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:16 am 
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Location: Suffolk, United Kingdom
received my order today very good service pity I have to work Saturday & Sunday so not sure how much Stud work I will be able to get up

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Can anyone answer my question in the previous post please :D

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Last edited by Roguejackal on Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:49 am 
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Location: Santiago, Chile
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can anyone confirm I have to put 3 lines of AC50 under the plates before fixing down?
For maximum "safety factor", yes. 3 beads of caulk: one down the middle, and one close to each edge. Then another bead under each layer of drywall. In theory, just one seal is enough, but in practice, you never know if there might be a spot you missed, or that didn't stick very well, or where an air bubble popped, or where....


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:39 am 
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Thanks for that Stuart, have gone with 3 beads under the sole plates all down and fixed am building the studs in situ.


Image




Can anyone suggest where I can get 'putty packs' for the electrical boxes in the UK as I will not be using surface trunking my rooms are small enough already, :? I have an electrician but he is not familiar with 'putty packs', kinda wondered wether they are called something different in the UK?, mind you he is only 20 he's the drummer in my sons band :D so hopefully will cut the costs down a little,

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Last edited by Roguejackal on Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:33 am 
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Can anyone suggest where I can get 'putty packs' for the electrical boxes in the UK
Also called "putty pads".

http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/modu ... eId=-63132
http://www.soundisolationstore.com/putt ... tlets.html
http://www.soundaway.com/FireStop_Putty ... /21009.htm

Maybe that helps... Print them and take them to the biggest electrical supply store around, and ask what they have that might fit the bill...

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:04 am 
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Many thanks for that Stuart, have been busy but no photos as my phone is in for repair,

Framing finished and electric's first fix done at the weekend, have been fixing some battens to the inside of the outside wall in the shower room and entrance hall to accommodate some 30mm thick Celcon insulation, plumber is coming round this coming Saturday to first fix so will be insulating and boarding from then on.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 6:39 am 
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A couple of photos of the work on going,

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Image

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Last edited by Roguejackal on Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:14 am 
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Ceiling plyboards are done and caulked have started on the walls also,


Image


Managed to get the floor in the entrance and shower room ready for screed.


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Sorry about the quality of some of the pictures have been using my iphone for them and sometimes the quality is not great.

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Last edited by Roguejackal on Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:34 am 
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Some progress on what will eventually be the control room, 18mm tongue & groove plywood caulked an sealed and then 15mm plasterboard caulk & seal, when all done plan to then plaster finish.

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Can any one suggest the thickness of the 2 panes of glass for my viewing window?

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Last edited by Roguejackal on Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:02 am 
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Can any one suggest the thickness of the 2 panes of glass for my viewing window?

The idea is to keep the same surface density as the rest of your wall. So if you can describe the exact makeup of each leaf (what layers it is made of, and how thick each layer is), then I'll figure it out for you.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:20 am 
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Ok thanks for replying for me, the control room side is a 70mm x 45mm stud, with a 1st layer of 18mm tongue an groove plywood and a 2nd layer of 15mm plasterboard which will have a skim of plaster on it, the air space is filled with insulation.

The live room wall is 150mm concrete blocks filled with concrete and a sand/cement render on both faces, though round the window it has been built with limestone and sandstone as a feature which you can see in my previous build pictures.

Many thanks again

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:01 am 
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Any idea on them 2 panes of glass Stuart, just want to find out a price to see if I can afford to put it in before xmas and the rest of the build?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:24 pm 
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Ooops! I guess I missed your response!!! :oops:

Quote:
with a 1st layer of 18mm tongue an groove plywood and a 2nd layer of 15mm plasterboard which will have a skim of plaster on it,
At a very rough estimate, the surface density of your wall is going to be around 20 to 30 kg/m2, as the materials you are using are roughly in the density range of 700 to 900 kg/m3. Glass is about triple that, so you are going to need glass that is roughly 8-12mm thick, give or take, to match the wall.

On the other side, 150mm of concrete is one hell of a lot of mass! :shock: Not necessary to try to match that (you'd need ridiculously thick glass!) I reckon I'd go with 12mm glass on the concrete wall side, and 9mm on the other side (laminate glass, preferably). Or to save money, you could do 9mm on both sides and increase the air gap a bit.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:02 am 
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That's great Stuart, :D

what sort of air gap would you suggest as I have around 280mm minimum between each face on the walls, I will be using Rods book for guidance on the window build with 2 separate frames and covering the air gap with a black material, when the live room is built it will be my sons band mainly at first (drums, lead guitar, bass guitar) and I would say that they are pretty loud, my son plays a PRS through a Hughes & Kettner amp with a 4x12 cab, the bassist plays through separate amp an cab also and they seem to be louder now than the old band which had another guitarist as well :roll:
But the plan is that my son and stepson will end up recording other people, bands etc when everything is up an running properly, probably in a years time at the rate i'm building this. :lol:

Carl

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 4:46 am 
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what sort of air gap would you suggest as I have around 280mm minimum between each face on the walls,
A gap of 280 mm between the two panes of glass (9mm and 12mm) is fine. In theory, that should get you over 50 dB of isolation, and probably closer to 60. In other words, if the kids are going wild at 110 dB in the room, that will be down to around 50 db or so outside the room (assuming that the rest of the build is up to the same level, and that you have no flanking issues).

Quote:
(drums, lead guitar, bass guitar)
:shock: :!: Yup, 110 db is highly probable, So is 115... Maybe more! :)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 6:44 am 
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Thanks for the reply again Stuart, so I think I will go as wide as I can with the air space :D

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