Farmhouse home studio construction

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:24 pm

Eric Best wrote:

Read this thread. It will tell you everything you want to know about flush mounting.

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=718

Thanks Eric!

I've read that thread earlier and I read it again. Includes very useful information, maybe I've to read it even third time

I'm doing my soffits based on John's soffit design. There's a plywood box where the speaker is. What is the point of that box?
Is it only because it holds the speaker in place?
On Barefoot's flush mounting method does not have that speaker box.

-Janne

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limsa-terry · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:18 am

I found this thread which deals the same issues.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1929&start=135

Maybe I'm making plywood boxes as tight as possible to a speaker, still that I can remove the speaker if needed.

If I understanded correctly, I don't have to seal the seam between the speaker and the bezel?
In Barefoot's design there's a small 3-5mm gap between the bezel and the speaker.

-Janne

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:17 am

Ok. After reading a lots of more information about flush mounting and speaker boxes. I found this Glenns comment (in Sonolinks thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14736) about the decoupling the speakers from the box.

gullfo wrote:

make sure they are decoupled from the box (rubber, sylomer, sorbathane, insulation, neoprene pucks etc etc) and the face plate and use non-hardening caulk or soft rubber to seal it full around the edges. also make sure the monitor face is level with the baffle plate so it works properly.

Also this comment:

gullfo wrote:

make sure they're are not so tight as to be coupled to the speaker box... your rubber or insulation decoupling layer in the box should be firm but still prevents the speaker from transferring directly to the box and the frame.

So, I got my answers

I attached rubber strip to all sides of the speaker box.
So the speaker is now very firm to a box but still decoupling from the box and the frame.

-Janne

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Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:50 am

Yup! That's the way to do it!

Don't forget that with the Adam you need to cut a very weird shape face plate to match the bevelled angles at the top of the cabinet.

- Stuart -

BriHar · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:03 am

Also your going to have to pull that speaker a little bit forwards once you've got the baffle in place. The speaker should be flush with the baffle not the box. Hopefully it's not too tightly wedged. So you might want to add a cord or belt (seat belting for autos can be bought by the meter/yard) wrapped around behind the speaker so you can make these adjustments, otherwise you're going to be hard pressed to pull it out! :wink:

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:02 pm

Thanks guys!

Soundman2020 wrote:

Yup! That's the way to do it!

Don't forget that with the Adam you need to cut a very weird shape face plate to match the bevelled angles at the top of the cabinet.

- Stuart -

Yeah, I found Hugo's thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16554&start=30
There is a example how to soffit mount the Adam's.

I'll have to make removable face plate so that I can remove the speaker if I need to make some sound adjustments.

BriHar wrote:

Also your going to have to pull that speaker a little bit forwards once you've got the baffle in place. The speaker should be flush with the baffle not the box. Hopefully it's not too tightly wedged. So you might want to add a cord or belt (seat belting for autos can be bought by the meter/yard) wrapped around behind the speaker so you can make these adjustments, otherwise you're going to be hard pressed to pull it out! :wink:

It's not too tight but I definitely add that belt. That's a good idea! It saves me from sweat and tears

hopefully...

Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:18 am

Quote:

I'll have to make removable face plate so that I can remove the speaker if I need to make some sound adjustments.

There's another option: Take off the rear panel of the speaker, extend the cables, and mount it on the soffit panel, facing the room. Much easier to make adjustments like that!

- Stuart -

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:44 pm

Soffit update again!

Pic 1.
Lower vent hole for air circulation sawed.

Pic 2.
Speaker boxes and box frame in place.

Pic 3.
Soffit baffle attached temporary.
There's a little error at the left upper vent hole, it's only in the pic so don't worry

Pic 4.
Ready to make hangers in the bottom of the soffits. I found soft 12mm fiberboard at the local hardware store.
Insulation is 100mm rockwool sliced in two pieces.

Pic 5.
First hanger finished.

Pic 6.
I was able to fit four hangers in soffit dungeon.
Hanger sizes are 400mm, 350mm, 220mm, 150mm. Height is 900mm.

Pic 7.
First hanger is hanging.

Pic 8.
All four hangers in place.

Pic 9 and 10.
Cable conduit from the control room to the hall. I'm gonna attach mic panel there in the hall, so I can use rest of the house as a tracking room if needed.
Our Living room is pretty good sounding room btw

and there is also a piano!

Pic 11 and 12.
Ceiling insulation done.

Next: Insulation, insulation, insulation...

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Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:59 pm

Progress! Looking good!

Just one comment on the conduit: you did decouple that in the middle of the wall, right? Cut out a section and wrap the gap with rubber? If not, then it might be a flanking path.

- Stuart -

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:38 pm

Soundman2020 wrote:

Progress! Looking good!

Just one comment on the conduit: you did decouple that in the middle of the wall, right? Cut out a section and wrap the gap with rubber? If not, then it might be a flanking path.

- Stuart -

Thanks Stuart

I drilled 10mm bigger hole than the conduit is and stuffed backer rod around. Finished with the caulk.
In other words counduit does not touch the wall leafs

-janne

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:26 pm

Soffit construction and insulation update!

Pics. 1-6
Soffits filled with loose insulation.
Upper soffit vent made of chicken wire to secure that insulation won't block the air circulation.

Pic. 7
Soffit baffle in place.

Pic. 8
Insulation in.

Pic. 9
Back wall insulation.
In the left corner is superchunk bass absorber.
Angled absorber in the front isn't completely filled with insulation.

Pics. 10-11
Left and right side resonators filled with insulation.

The room is pretty dead now. Surprise :idea:

I was planning to cover the ceiling with thin plastic layer to return high end in the room,
and finally cover the ceiling with cloth. Maybe back wall bass absorbers the same.

-janne

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Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:12 pm

Looking good!

- Stuart -

limsa-terry · **Posted:** Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:46 pm

Update!

Pic. 1
Soffit front baffle made of 15mm parquet. It's chestnut or something like that, don't actually know.
I got few slices from my friend and he didn't know what it was. Don't matter, looks cool

Pic. 2
Removable pieces of the front baffle.
Now I can easily pull the speaker out if I need to make rear panel adjustments.

Pic. 3
Ceiling cloth. I stapled thin 0,22mm plastic foil under the cloth to keep a little HF energy in the room.

Pic. 4-5
Resonator wall cloth stapled under the slats.

Pic. 6
Slats. Pattern is (from up to down)
Slat 70mm
Gap 5mm
Slat 30mm
Gap 5mm
Slat 70mm
Gap 2,5mm
Slat 120mm
Gap 10mm
Slat 30mm
Gap 10mm
Slat 120mm
Gap 2,5mm
and so on...

Pic. 7
Slats stained.

Pic. 8
Slats in place

Next: right slat wall finishing, Cloth stapling to the rest of the walls.

-janne

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