Basement recording studio in Columbus Ohio Build Diary

Esco · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:55 am

Stuart,

Dude you are amazing! Thanks for taking the time to help me. I think the neoprene was just to prevent sound from traveling under my wall and also to reduce any travel through my concrete slab. But if sealing it would also do the trick then I will can do that also. Maybe neoprene and also chalk? I am just goin by what Glenn suggested since he has held my hand through this whole process. So should I just get some chalk and start sealing that area instead of lifting and neoprening?

I do think the main purpose was to create a seal though.

Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:39 am

If Glenn suggested it, then my guess is that it would be for sealing. Most people don't realize just how important an airtight seal is. Even a tiny crack under your wall, just a fraction of an inch wide and a couple of feet long, can compromise the isolation gained by the rest of the wall!

So you should be extra careful to make sure that you do a perfect job of sealing under those walls. Seal from both sides, forcing the caulk into the gap under the sole plate from both edges. If you are going to take out the nails and use bolts, then you could even lift the wall slightly while the nails are out, to get better penetration underneath. Just make sure that the wall is well supported while you lift it!

To complete the seal, you should also lay another bead of caulk under the edge of each layer of drywall. Lift the drywall a fraction of an inch before you nail / screw it in place (put some type of thin shim under it, then take out the shim when the nails are in place), then caulk that gap under the edge, where the shim was.

Also, use backer rod and caulk in the gaps between sheets of drywall to create a good seal, and stagger the joints between layers, so that no joint on the first layer lines up with a joint on the second layer.

By the way, it's "caulk" not "chalk"! The stuff that comes in a big tube that you put in a caulking gun. The type you use for sealing around the edge of your bathtub or kitchen counter. Use a type that remains very flexible and rubbery even when it is fully dry, and that never gets hard. (Even better is proper acoustic caulk, but ordinary flexible caulk will also work.)

- Stuart -

Esco · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:59 am

Sorry for my mispellings... I did mean caulk. LOL I bought about 200$ worth of neoprene so I guess thats why I am a bit uneasy about wasting it. But I'm sure I can use it for the tops of the walls?

I will go get some caulk very soon. So I think I need to focus on building my other two walls. I will be working on the wall in my vocal/drum room that has the window and soffit for the baffle box.

I will post pictures through the process.

The fun part will be electricity and installing the propper connection for mic imputs in the main room/ live room. I'm such a newb....I kill me!! LOL

Please Stuart, any advice is welcome!

Esco · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2012 11:34 pm

Hey Stuart,

Glenn did message me and confirmed what you said. So I will just caulk very well under the walls. I could use some help or advice though. I have th frame a doorway where my cold air intake vent is. This will make my door about 8 inches shorter then normal....

I am ok with this but I'm not sure how to build the wall so that it is stable and will not move when the door opens.

Any ideas or suggestions?

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Esco · **Posted:** Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:24 am

Hey All,

I have an electrician coming in tomorrow afternoon and was wondering if anyone is versed in this area and would have any advice on outlet placement for the design above.

Thanks!

Esco · **Posted:** Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:05 am

Hey all,

Glenn sent me a message with all of the electricity specs. Just wanted to let everyone know

Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:51 am

Quote:

I am ok with this but I'm not sure how to build the wall so that it is stable and will not move when the door opens. Any ideas or suggestions?

Not really sure what the issue might be, but if you just build the wall normally, as you would for any other size door, then it should be fine. Maybe you could so a quick 3D model in SketchUp and post some photos of that area, so we can see what the issue is. If you can't do a normal doorway for whatever reason, then maybe sway braces would help?

- Stuart -

Esco · **Posted:** Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:07 pm

Ok, so after much thought and research. I have decided to go with xspaces suggestion of building a frame on top of my walls and doing the room within a room method. This will completely decouple the walls from the joists above. it will be a bit more work removing the walls and cutting them down to size. I want to eliminate any hard contact with the joists. No sound transmission is the best! I will still use Glenns design.

Will this method eliminate the need for ISO clips in the walls and ceiling?

Soundman2020 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:46 am

Quote:

Will this method eliminate the need for ISO clips in the walls and ceiling?

Yup!

If the inner leaf walls and ceiling are decoupled, not touching the outer, then that's all you need. No clips, RC or channel required.

- Stuart -

Esco · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:56 am

Nice! Then Im going that route.

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Basement recording studio in Columbus Ohio Build Diary

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