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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:31 am 
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Location: London (England)
… Update Part-3

Time for the cloth…I went Blue for the Live room and Red for the Control room.

cloth stapled to the wood strips and cut off the excess
Attachment:
IMG_2854.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3015.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3020.jpg

And finally I added the wood trims all around the cloth to cover the staples:
Attachment:
IMG_2860.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3026.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3027.jpg



end of part-3...


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:36 am 
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… Update Part-4 (Final :oops: )

Time to hang them up (can't find any more excuses to postpone it!) :-)

Control room:
Attachment:
IMG_3013.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3076.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3082.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3091.jpg

Live room:
Attachment:
IMG_3085.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3087.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3088.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3096.jpg



That's all for now.

Next slot resonators and cloth cover frames for the rest of the walls…. hope I will speed up a bit.

Ciao

Simo


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:52 am 
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Location: Italy
Hi Simo, really nice clouds!!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:36 pm 
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
As always, Simo, just BEAUTIFUL! You claim to be slow, but the work you're doing warrants it. Really looks spectacular!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:46 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
oooooh, yeah. It is slowly coming together. And, as usual, rich details and perfect planning. It pays of, clearly.
Hope it "sounds" as good as is looks.
ro


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 11:53 pm 
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Location: Boston, USA
wow, that is beautiful!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 5:13 am 
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Thanks a lot for the encouragement guys. It does mean a lot !!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:07 am 
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Floor time 8)

Firstly I used the self levelling compound to compensate for some unevenness in the concrete floor (no pics….don't know how but it did managed to escape my photographic rampage :twisted: )

I then applied this liquid damp proof membrane
Attachment:
Liquid-Damp-Proof-Membrane.jpg
(3 coats)… It's cool as when it dries out it becomes a thin waterproofed rubber layer - really cool !
On top of that I put down the fibreboard underlay plus a thinner (3mm) foam underlay.
Attachment:
IMG_3103.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3065.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3108.jpg



…and this is the result:

Live room
Attachment:
IMG_3112.jpg

and

Control room
Attachment:
IMG_3117.jpg




My question is:

I've been advised to use these cork strips
Attachment:
IMG_3121.jpg
to fill in the (15mm) expansion gap between the floor and the walls….

A) Would this be ok (as the cork is quite flexible) ?
- or -
B) perhaps use the foam strips often used in the walls expansions gap ?
Attachment:
Expansion-Foam.jpg
- or -
C) am I better to leave the gap totally empty ?

Many Thanks in anticipation


Ciao

Simo


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:56 pm 
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Flooring always makes a room more pretty, donnit! I wonder why you didn't just glue the floor to the existing concrete/rubberlayer. Making it "one" with the existing floor will make your floor more quiet (less resonance).

anyhow, since your floor isn't decoupled from the wall (or vice versa) it doesn't matter what you use to fill the gaps. I did it with transparent sealant (kit).


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 11:59 pm 
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Simo - when I started out in studios at Armstrongs in Melbourne in the 60s cork panels were our 703. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:01 am 
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Thanks for info Ro !

John, good to hear that :thu:
I actually used those cork strips today for the expansion gap… they are quite soft, so should allow for any slight stretch the wood floor might do with changes in temperature, whilst keeping it more compact as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:21 am 
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Hello all,

hope you had a great end and even better start of the year !

I just finished the slat resonators on both CR and LR, and am now finishing off the cloth frames for the remaining walls …I'm sorting out the pics and I'll post them asap.

As, in the meantime, I'm shopping around for the glasses for the windows, I've got a quick question for you:

How many mm smaller should the glass be compared to the actual window's frame
, so it is not too tight? what would you advise?
(obviously I will seal those few mm gap)
Would 5mm (I mean 2.5mm all around it) be ok ?

Also, I read it's good procedure to place EPDM setting blocks under the glass to help settling it centred in the frame…but what thickness should the setting blocks be in your opinion?

Many Thanks in anticipation as usual !!


Simo

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 2:36 am 
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Quote:
How many mm smaller should the glass be compared to the actual window's frame, so it is not too tight? what would you advise? (obviously I will seal those few mm gap) Would 5mm (I mean 2.5mm all around it) be ok ?
That's probably fine, but do check that you have enough space to be able to tilt the glass into position! You normally set the bottom edge in place while holding the glass at an angle, then tilt it up to vertical. Make sure that there's enough clearance between the glass and the frame so you can do that.

Quote:
Also, I read it's good procedure to place EPDM setting blocks under the glass to help settling it centred in the frame…but what thickness should the setting blocks be in your opinion?
Thick enough to do the job! :) :shot:

Seriously, get whatever your glazier recommends for the size (weight) of glass you are using, and use enough of them to support the glass without over-compressing the rubber.

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:38 am 
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Thanks for your answer Stuart.

I think I settled for a 50' roll of 1/8" x 3/4" (3.2mm x 19mm) neoprene setting block.

The other option I found is 3/16" (5mm) setting blocks, so the gap under the glass will end up being bigger than needed in my opinion, even if I will completely fill that in obviously… also, the other down side it's that It comes in 7/8" width, thus it's not ideal as it will require trimming it as well…

I'll be put up 15mm laminated glasses, so that plus the thickness of the glazing tape (which, as far as I can see it is commonly 1/16" or 1.5mm) between glass and both inner and outer stops should give me approx the 19mm width of the setting blocks I'm going for (mentioned above).
…playing with millimetres here y'know :-)


anyway, Update time (Part-1):

Frames for the cloth made with the usual 9mm MDF:
Control Room Rear:
Attachment:
IMG_3201.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3202.jpg

removed the frames and stapled the thin plastic sheet:
Attachment:
IMG_3214.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3216.jpg

all coming together
Attachment:
IMG_3220.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3256.jpg


Control Room Front:
under the speaker soffit
Attachment:
IMG_3131.jpg

and overall view
Attachment:
IMG_3251.jpg


... more to come ...


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:43 am 
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Update (Part-2):

Slot Resonators…

Live Room:
Attachment:
IMG_3242.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_3262.jpg

looking from CR
Attachment:
IMG_3264.jpg


and Control Room:

Right-hand side
Attachment:
IMG_3126.jpg

Left-hand side
Attachment:
IMG_3254.jpg

Looking from the front of the room, between the speakers
Attachment:
IMG_3258.jpg

here artistically from the floor :-)
Attachment:
IMG_3259.jpg

and from the Live room
Attachment:
IMG_3260.jpg



…getting there… :yahoo:

next installing glasses and door/windows architraves


Ciao !

Simo


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