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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 7:15 am 
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I've now got to add some noggins underneath the silencer to transfer the load to the adjacent joists too.
I'd put Sorbothane in there, to decouple it. Or neoprene. No solid connections!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 7:27 am 
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Soundman2020 wrote:
Quote:
I've now got to add some noggins underneath the silencer to transfer the load to the adjacent joists too.
I'd put Sorbothane in there, to decouple it. Or neoprene. No solid connections!


- Stuart -


This silencer is for the inner leaf. It's already decoupled, there's a gap between it and the outer leaf.
Where are you suggesting the sorbathane to go?

Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:05 am 
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Where are you suggesting the sorbathane to go?


Attachment:
inner leaf silencer in place--decouple.jpg


It might be decoupled from the outer-leaf, but it is sitting directly on those inner-leaf joists. There are multiple turns inside, so there will be turbulence... turbulence = noise, likely low frequency, likely affecting the box itself. Vibration. Resonance.

Decouple everything. Even if it looks like you don't need to, still decouple.

Assuming you want maximum isolation, and the lowest possible NC.... :)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:47 am 
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Soundman2020 wrote:
Quote:
Where are you suggesting the sorbathane to go?


Attachment:
inner leaf silencer in place--decouple.jpg


It might be decoupled from the outer-leaf, but it is sitting directly on those inner-leaf joists. There are multiple turns inside, so there will be turbulence... turbulence = noise, likely low frequency, likely affecting the box itself. Vibration. Resonance.

Decouple everything. Even if it looks like you don't need to, still decouple.

Assuming you want maximum isolation, and the lowest possible NC.... :)

- Stuart -


I had considered decoupling the silencers but decided against it, as my TL requirements aren't huge and the air velocity will be quite low.

How would you go about attaching the silencer to the joists without coupling them? Using neoprene/sorbathane bolts?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 10:44 am 
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I've been thinking about the possibility of decoupling the silencer.

I'll get some adhesive backed neoprene sponge rubber. I can get it in a roll of 10m x 12mm x 10mm. I can line the tops of the joists with it and sit the silencer on it.

Resilient brackets look good for attaching the silencer to the joists. I can screw the bracket into the side of the box and then into the top of the joists.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:53 pm 
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I'll get some adhesive backed neoprene sponge rubber. I can get it in a roll of 10m x 12mm x 10mm. I can line the tops of the joists with it and sit the silencer on it.

Resilient brackets look good for attaching the silencer to the joists. I can screw the bracket into the side of the box and then into the top of the joists.
Sounds like a plan!

- Stuart -

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:55 am 
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Had some time today so started on the second low-profile silencer. I added the additional thickness to the baffle you mentioned this time Stuart too!

Dan

Attachment:
second silencer.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:59 am 
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:thu:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 7:13 am 
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Hi Dan,

It's looking brilliant so far, I'm enjoying reading your thread. I'm in the UK too and I've got the frame up, cladded and the roof felted. I'm building my inner leaf first and will build my outer leaf at a later date.

I wanted to pick your brains; right now I have a single layer of 18mm OSB on the walls and roof and, like you, I was going to beef up with 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard... until I read your idea of using cement board on the outside instead. This is a brilliantly tempting idea as it would save so much time.

From what I gather, the cement board is weather resistant and can simply be painted, do you know if this is true? This is going on the outside of my INNER leaf, so I don't really want to spend extra money on external cladding as it will all be covered up once the outer leaf is installed.

So, to clarify I would attach the cement board to the outside of the OSB, covering up the seams and fixing to the studs, and then seal all the gaps and joints. Would this cause any risk of trapping moisture in?

I would still need to beef up my ceiling from the inside as the felt is already on, but at least it would save me some time.

The cement boards I've been looking at vary between 12kg/m2 - 14kg/m2. So, plus the 18mm OSB I should end up with the equivalent mass or even a bit more than 2x 15mm plasterboard layers by themselves.

Any advice, much appreciated!
Paul


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 7:56 am 
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Paulus87 wrote:
Hi Dan,

It's looking brilliant so far, I'm enjoying reading your thread. I'm in the UK too and I've got the frame up, cladded and the roof felted. I'm building my inner leaf first and will build my outer leaf at a later date.

I wanted to pick your brains; right now I have a single layer of 18mm OSB on the walls and roof and, like you, I was going to beef up with 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard... until I read your idea of using cement board on the outside instead. This is a brilliantly tempting idea as it would save so much time.

From what I gather, the cement board is weather resistant and can simply be painted, do you know if this is true? This is going on the outside of my INNER leaf, so I don't really want to spend extra money on external cladding as it will all be covered up once the outer leaf is installed.

So, to clarify I would attach the cement board to the outside of the OSB, covering up the seams and fixing to the studs, and then seal all the gaps and joints. Would this cause any risk of trapping moisture in?

I would still need to beef up my ceiling from the inside as the felt is already on, but at least it would save me some time.

The cement boards I've been looking at vary between 12kg/m2 - 14kg/m2. So, plus the 18mm OSB I should end up with the equivalent mass or even a bit more than 2x 15mm plasterboard layers by themselves.

Any advice, much appreciated!
Paul


Hi Paul, nice to see another UK studio builder!
I'm struggling to visualise what you have at the moment. You say you have a frame up, roofed and cladded, but mention that your outer leaf will be completed at a later date. Is the cladded frame and roof not your outer leaf?

Cement board is designed to be an external skin yes and weatherproof, but should really be rendered over if exposed to the elements for more than 6 months or so.
You could seal the cement board by rendering the joints and painting it yes.

This is an example of the board I'm talking about:
https://www.insulationshop.co/aquapanel_exterior.html

Dan


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 10:32 am 
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Location: Wales, UK
Waka wrote:
Paulus87 wrote:
Hi Dan,

It's looking brilliant so far, I'm enjoying reading your thread. I'm in the UK too and I've got the frame up, cladded and the roof felted. I'm building my inner leaf first and will build my outer leaf at a later date.

I wanted to pick your brains; right now I have a single layer of 18mm OSB on the walls and roof and, like you, I was going to beef up with 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard... until I read your idea of using cement board on the outside instead. This is a brilliantly tempting idea as it would save so much time.

From what I gather, the cement board is weather resistant and can simply be painted, do you know if this is true? This is going on the outside of my INNER leaf, so I don't really want to spend extra money on external cladding as it will all be covered up once the outer leaf is installed.

So, to clarify I would attach the cement board to the outside of the OSB, covering up the seams and fixing to the studs, and then seal all the gaps and joints. Would this cause any risk of trapping moisture in?

I would still need to beef up my ceiling from the inside as the felt is already on, but at least it would save me some time.

The cement boards I've been looking at vary between 12kg/m2 - 14kg/m2. So, plus the 18mm OSB I should end up with the equivalent mass or even a bit more than 2x 15mm plasterboard layers by themselves.

Any advice, much appreciated!
Paul


Hi Paul, nice to see another UK studio builder!
I'm struggling to visualise what you have at the moment. You say you have a frame up, roofed and cladded, but mention that your outer leaf will be completed at a later date. Is the cladded frame and roof not your outer leaf?

Cement board is designed to be an external skin yes and weatherproof, but should really be rendered over if exposed to the elements for more than 6 months or so.
You could seal the cement board by rendering the joints and painting it yes.

This is an example of the board I'm talking about:
https://www.insulationshop.co/aquapanel_exterior.html

Dan


Thanks for the reply, yes that’s similar to the board I’ve been looking at. It’s a toss up between about 5kg/m2 more of mass and lots more work vs less work and slightly less mass... but with the added benefit of protecting my osb.

Yes my build is a little unusual, I’m building the inner leaf first and it’s an inside out design, so that’s why it is already cladded and roofed on the outside of the frame. I’m doing it like this for budget reasons as it will allow me to have a useable, albeit sound leaky, space that I can at least move my gear into instead of it being stored, and it’ll be good enough to use for teaching and light mixing.

Thanks for your help, can’t wait to see your progress


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 7:54 pm 
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Paulus87 wrote:
Waka wrote:
Paulus87 wrote:
Hi Dan,

It's looking brilliant so far, I'm enjoying reading your thread. I'm in the UK too and I've got the frame up, cladded and the roof felted. I'm building my inner leaf first and will build my outer leaf at a later date.

I wanted to pick your brains; right now I have a single layer of 18mm OSB on the walls and roof and, like you, I was going to beef up with 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard... until I read your idea of using cement board on the outside instead. This is a brilliantly tempting idea as it would save so much time.

From what I gather, the cement board is weather resistant and can simply be painted, do you know if this is true? This is going on the outside of my INNER leaf, so I don't really want to spend extra money on external cladding as it will all be covered up once the outer leaf is installed.

So, to clarify I would attach the cement board to the outside of the OSB, covering up the seams and fixing to the studs, and then seal all the gaps and joints. Would this cause any risk of trapping moisture in?

I would still need to beef up my ceiling from the inside as the felt is already on, but at least it would save me some time.

The cement boards I've been looking at vary between 12kg/m2 - 14kg/m2. So, plus the 18mm OSB I should end up with the equivalent mass or even a bit more than 2x 15mm plasterboard layers by themselves.

Any advice, much appreciated!
Paul


Hi Paul, nice to see another UK studio builder!
I'm struggling to visualise what you have at the moment. You say you have a frame up, roofed and cladded, but mention that your outer leaf will be completed at a later date. Is the cladded frame and roof not your outer leaf?

Cement board is designed to be an external skin yes and weatherproof, but should really be rendered over if exposed to the elements for more than 6 months or so.
You could seal the cement board by rendering the joints and painting it yes.

This is an example of the board I'm talking about:
https://www.insulationshop.co/aquapanel_exterior.html

Dan


Thanks for the reply, yes that’s similar to the board I’ve been looking at. It’s a toss up between about 5kg/m2 more of mass and lots more work vs less work and slightly less mass... but with the added benefit of protecting my osb.

Yes my build is a little unusual, I’m building the inner leaf first and it’s an inside out design, so that’s why it is already cladded and roofed on the outside of the frame. I’m doing it like this for budget reasons as it will allow me to have a useable, albeit sound leaky, space that I can at least move my gear into instead of it being stored, and it’ll be good enough to use for teaching and light mixing.

Thanks for your help, can’t wait to see your progress


So if I understand you right, currently you have a frame installed with OSB3 on the outside (you've called this cladding in your post?) and roof joists on top, that are boarded (presumably with OSB3 too and felted. And that's where you're at. Correct?

You plan to use this as an inside out inner leaf in future by building a new timber frame all around this not touching the frame you have now, including a new roof over the top and adding mass and facing it all. Am I on the same page now?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:42 am
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Location: Wales, UK
Waka wrote:
Paulus87 wrote:
Waka wrote:
Paulus87 wrote:
Hi Dan,

It's looking brilliant so far, I'm enjoying reading your thread. I'm in the UK too and I've got the frame up, cladded and the roof felted. I'm building my inner leaf first and will build my outer leaf at a later date.

I wanted to pick your brains; right now I have a single layer of 18mm OSB on the walls and roof and, like you, I was going to beef up with 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard... until I read your idea of using cement board on the outside instead. This is a brilliantly tempting idea as it would save so much time.

From what I gather, the cement board is weather resistant and can simply be painted, do you know if this is true? This is going on the outside of my INNER leaf, so I don't really want to spend extra money on external cladding as it will all be covered up once the outer leaf is installed.

So, to clarify I would attach the cement board to the outside of the OSB, covering up the seams and fixing to the studs, and then seal all the gaps and joints. Would this cause any risk of trapping moisture in?

I would still need to beef up my ceiling from the inside as the felt is already on, but at least it would save me some time.

The cement boards I've been looking at vary between 12kg/m2 - 14kg/m2. So, plus the 18mm OSB I should end up with the equivalent mass or even a bit more than 2x 15mm plasterboard layers by themselves.

Any advice, much appreciated!
Paul


Hi Paul, nice to see another UK studio builder!
I'm struggling to visualise what you have at the moment. You say you have a frame up, roofed and cladded, but mention that your outer leaf will be completed at a later date. Is the cladded frame and roof not your outer leaf?

Cement board is designed to be an external skin yes and weatherproof, but should really be rendered over if exposed to the elements for more than 6 months or so.
You could seal the cement board by rendering the joints and painting it yes.

This is an example of the board I'm talking about:
https://www.insulationshop.co/aquapanel_exterior.html

Dan


Thanks for the reply, yes that’s similar to the board I’ve been looking at. It’s a toss up between about 5kg/m2 more of mass and lots more work vs less work and slightly less mass... but with the added benefit of protecting my osb.

Yes my build is a little unusual, I’m building the inner leaf first and it’s an inside out design, so that’s why it is already cladded and roofed on the outside of the frame. I’m doing it like this for budget reasons as it will allow me to have a useable, albeit sound leaky, space that I can at least move my gear into instead of it being stored, and it’ll be good enough to use for teaching and light mixing.

Thanks for your help, can’t wait to see your progress


So if I understand you right, currently you have a frame installed with OSB3 on the outside (you've called this cladding in your post?) and roof joists on top, that are boarded (presumably with OSB3 too and felted. And that's where you're at. Correct?

You plan to use this as an inside out inner leaf in future by building a new timber frame all around this not touching the frame you have now, including a new roof over the top and adding mass and facing it all. Am I on the same page now?


Almost - apart from there’s only one layer of osb on top of the roof rafters. So yes the whole building is a frame with osb layer on the outside of the frame.

On top of that osb layer I want to install the cement board, apart from the roof where I will install it on the inside between the rafters.

The roof is a double pitched roof.

You can see my design and build thread here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21409


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 12:04 am 
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Ah cool, I can't believe I've never noticed your thread!

Yep the cement board can be installed over your OSB3 fine. Make sure you screw straight through the OSB into your studs. When placing your vapour control membrane, in the UK we usually put it just before we plasterboard a room. So all the insulation is behind the vapour control layer and a breather membrane is attached to the outside the OSB before you face it. By using cem board though you won't need the breather membrane (you won't benefit from it's breathableness due to the cem board being sealed air tight anyway. So when you fit your outer leaf you will need to attach a breather membrane to the outside of that if you clad it.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 2:46 am 
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Waka wrote:
Ah cool, I can't believe I've never noticed your thread!

Yep the cement board can be installed over your OSB3 fine. Make sure you screw straight through the OSB into your studs. When placing your vapour control membrane, in the UK we usually put it just before we plasterboard a room. So all the insulation is behind the vapour control layer and a breather membrane is attached to the outside the OSB before you face it. By using cem board though you won't need the breather membrane (you won't benefit from it's breathableness due to the cem board being sealed air tight anyway. So when you fit your outer leaf you will need to attach a breather membrane to the outside of that if you clad it.

Dan


Great, that's what I was thinking. I'm guessing I would have the option to either clad or simply paint the outer leaf if I also used cement board for that?

So here's a very crude sketch just to clarify:


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