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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 3:00 am 
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Hi Jay. Please read the forum rules for posting (click here). You seem to be missing a couple of things! :)

Your best bet is to use a good quality external crossover or speaker controller. DBX makes some decent ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 2:44 pm 
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Thanks Admin, I added the necessary info and I completely understand it's necessity..

That aside I just wanted to share that in my case, "with the specific monitors I flush mounted", which were tannoy DMT10's, all I needed to do was push them forward a 1/2 inch, making them proud of the wall and this fixed the increased bass response without the addition of an eq/filter ..ect. It seemed that having them recessed to the point of being perfectly flush with the wall, coupled them to the wall in a way that yielded a boomy response. Thought I'd share since I've taken info from this form on so many occasions. Good luck to anyone on the same journey. Lets also keep in mind that these specific monitors were made to be flush mounted or free standing by design.


My room dimensions are:
17'L x 13'W x 8'H

Monitor woofer size: 10" duel concentric


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:25 am 
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Location: Cleveland, TN
I have a pair of Adam S5X-H and it does not look like Adams make their external amp for soffit. mounting the unit again. Is there a way to soffit mount these?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:20 am 
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You can always rip the guts out and fill where they were with metal plates. Then mount the amps wherever you want.

Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:59 pm 
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There was an Extension Amp called EA-SX but I am not seeing anywhere and by extension have a price for it with the necessary Kit.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:24 pm 
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I have a pair of Adam S5X-H and it does not look like Adams make their external amp for soffit. mounting the unit again. Is there a way to soffit mount these?
Those are pretty big speakers! Powerful, too They can move LOTS of air.... You can certainly soffit-mount them, but it's going to need a pretty substantial structure to do that. If you don't want to pull out the amps and make your own extension kit, then the other option is to build the soffit in such a way that you can still get access to the rear panel for the tuning and tweaking. I've done a few studios like that, with access panels built into the sides of the soffits.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:50 pm 
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Do you have a design sketch? Obviously so I would not overheat the speakers


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 4:02 am 
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Do you have a design sketch? Obviously so I would not overheat the speakers

Where your control room window recesses into your front wall soffit wall you have can put removable side panels that will allow you to reach in behind the speakers.

If you look at this picture, you'll see the tall skinny piece of grey fabric on the side of the window that would allow you to reach in behind the soffit. This one is small as the soffits aren't super deep. Your design could include a much deeper one if need be!
Attachment:
Speaker Access Panel.jpg

Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 3:37 pm 
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Thank you for that...

Is there anyway that I can get more detail into actually mounting/framing up for the flush mount?

I thought you had to use like 4 different material and really build out each frame inside of a frame.

So Do you have a diagram as to what components are required


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 6:02 am 
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Consider what would happen if your amp fails and you have to tear it all apart....I pulled my amps when I soffit mounted for that very real possibility...I've also had an amp fail on a Dynaudio BM12a in the past, so its something to consider...


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:38 pm 
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Consider what would happen if your amp fails and you have to tear it all apart....I pulled my amps when I soffit mounted for that very real possibility...I've also had an amp fail on a Dynaudio BM12a in the past, so its something to consider...

:thu:

Quote:
Is there anyway that I can get more detail into actually mounting/framing up for the flush mount?

I thought you had to use like 4 different material and really build out each frame inside of a frame.

So Do you have a diagram as to what components are required

There is no one way to do it. Basically, build a super super strong frame. Either rigidly mount your speaker, or float it. Make sure there is ventilation up the back side of your speaker. Use the top and bottom of the soffit for bass trapping (hangers are great as they rule acoustically, plus allow air flow for your ventilation). Look up the soffit baffle rules on some threads on the forum. Use the lower part of the soffit for absorption as you will probably get some reflections off the back of your desk/furniture that this will help with. The baffle cannot touch your speaker. The face of your speaker needs to be flush with the baffle. The baffle must be insanely rigid (think of like... a thick sheet of MDF, sheet of steel, then a thick plywood veneered sheet for your finishing layer. Having said that, your speaker has to poke through all of that. So, that's why something like a steel plate is great as it adds the strength and mass without being 2" thick!

Greg

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 1:16 pm 
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curere wrote:
Thank you for that...

Is there anyway that I can get more detail into actually mounting/framing up for the flush mount?

I thought you had to use like 4 different material and really build out each frame inside of a frame.

So Do you have a diagram as to what components are required
As Greg said, there are several ways of designing a soffit: it all depends on how much effort you are prepared to put into it, and how accurate you want the room to be.

In all cases, though, you do need a very rigid, solid structure (framing) inside the soffit, to hold it all together. Then there are basically two options for the actual speaker mount: have the speaker tightly encased in a solid, rigid enclosure box that is rigidly mounted to the the frame, or have the speaker decoupled from the frame with a different type of enclosure box, so that the speaker "floats" on carefully tuned isolation mounts, and therefore cannot transmit any vibrations into the frame. I prefer the second method, but it is more complex.

There's no need for different materials: It can help, yes, but isn't necessary. The real goal is that the front baffle must be very massive (dense), and very rigid.

Take a look around the forum, especially the studios with soffits that are currently under construction, so you can get more ideas about how to do it right.


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