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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:20 am 
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knightfly wrote:
Damn, when's this retarded technology gonna let us email SOLID things? (Imagine what that'd do for the mail-order bride biz...


Having a genuine mail-order bride (from Ukraine), I whole-heartedly agree. It would have saved me a bundle on transportation. We did get to "date" over the Internet though so at least I saved all of those dinners/movies/symphonies etc while I was getting to know her. Of course, apparently she was keeping track of what we WOULD have done if I'd been living there and she made sure we made it up on the backend after she got here. :-)

len


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:57 am 
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Aloha!

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since we've had any progress but work has finally begun on the cloud absorber/lighting unit. :D

pic 1 - pieces laid out
pic 2 - pieces assembled, light fixture cut out
pic 3 - accent lighting braces in and cut
pic 4 - lighting unit test fit and braced
pic 5 - lighting unit/bracing closeup
pic 6 - unit assembled

Note to add to "Lessons Learned": It's one thing to lay out a 8' x 6' project on paper, it's a totally different thing to try & pick it up and move it during construction/installation. :shock:

Aloha 8)


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Last edited by kendale on Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:31 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:39 am 
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Aloha,

Added a few more braces and cleats for cloth framing. :D

- lighting braces - front view
- lighting braces - angled front view
- lighting braces - rear view
- lighting braces - angled rear view
- fuzzy closeup of lighting brace and cleats

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:37 pm 
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Hi Kendale,
I need to make a few of these for my live rooms ceiling and wanted to have a nice timber finish around the outside like you have got however I can't work out how to keep the cloth wrapped insulation inside the timber frame.
Can you explain how you will stop the insulation falling out?
JohnG

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:14 pm 
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Aloha John,

I was planning on 1" x 2" strips across the expanse every foot or so. These would tie in with cleats around the inside perimeter of the frame which the cloth covered panels will wedge against, either fastened with velcro or screwed into place, similar to the ones I used for the front absorber design.

But then again, we'll see what actually happens when I get to that point. :wink:

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:12 pm 
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Hey, just to let you know that cloud is looking GREAT!

Posting those pics at different stages is EXTREMELY helpful. I plan to build some similar, or maybe just like the one you built.

Hey, PLEASE be sure to let us know about the cloth you use.

Good deal Kendale...

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Stan


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:18 pm 
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Aloha,

Hey, thanks Stan. I'm glad the pics are helpful.

Here's a couple more showing more of the detail of the cleats and rockwool supports.

rear view 1 - rockwool support brackets
rear view 2 - rockwool support brackets
front view 1 - rockwool supports/cleats
front view 2 - rockwool supports/cleats
front view - cleats

I am planning to use the same Guilford of Maine FR701 Style 2100 #460 Buff for the cloth (which was used for the front wall/soffit unit.) I ordered it from: http://www.silentsource.com/acousticore ... hart1.html.

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:34 pm 
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Aloha,

Thought I'd just insert a note here: I changed the orientation of the rockwool supports.

I found that the 1" x 2" sagged a little when laid flat, but were a bit more rigid when laid on edge when working on the front absorber section that supports the computer monitor.

So I figured in the long run, by being orienting them on edge for the rockwool supports, they would keep the unit looking cleaner as they wouldn't sag so much due to the weight and gravity over time.

Aloha 8)


Last edited by kendale on Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:58 am 
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Aloha,

Small update: rockwool braces cut and positioned...but ran out of "T" brackets...go figure... :roll: (Note to self: just noticed I need to even out the spacing on the middle section.)


Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 6:18 pm 
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Aloha,

Small update. :D Here's a couple of shots of the:

- cloth frame in position
- cloth frame closeup

Aloha 8)


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Last edited by kendale on Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:04 pm 
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Aloha,

Small update - cloth framing done! :D

Next step: 4" x 4" mounting blocks for eye hooks

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:42 pm 
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Aloha,

4" x 4" mounting blocks installed in each corner. :D

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:04 pm 
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Aloha,

Well, it's been a good day! :D

Went up to town to pick up a few more supplies (T brackets, screws, wood putty, etc.) and ended up coming home with some new Mogami Studio cables! Awesome! :D :D :D Brought home (3) 25' TRS - DSub snakes, (2) 50' TRS - XLR monitor feeds, and (1) 50' mic cable.

Just got through installing snakes and listening test. They sound great!

More updates on cloud unit tomorrow.

Aloha 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:29 pm 
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Where did you get that cable? Is there any way to get a connection diagram for the D25 sub connector?

len


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:26 am 
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Aloha Len,

I got the cables from the Waimea Music Exchange. The owner, Paul Shaw, who just got back from the 2006 NAMM show, is now the state's one and only dealer for Mogami cables and MXL microphones (which he also brought back from the show.) He is also the Big Island's dealer for Mesa Boogie Amplifiers.

The pin-out diagram (I am told by Fostex) is the standard DA88 layout.

Aloha 8)


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