John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Hello, I have been lurking a reading here for a bit but this is my first post of many likely to come. I am in the process of closing on a home and have the opportunity to build a studio space to my needs in the full basement of the home. I was referred here from the SC forums as this is a better resource to field these types of questions.

As I am not in possession of the property yet no construction has begun. I am still reading up on design and am waiting until I can make accurate measurements of the space before I start drafting something up in sketchup. This will likely become a two room setup with the larger of the two to serve as a control / tracking space for a good sized MIDI studio and the second an appropriate sized vocal booth. Volume levels are kept fairly moderate (I understand this is subjective but I don’t have a reading to provide) as most of the work time is spent in composition. The bare space is a standard block wall basement with about 7’6” from floor to the bottom of the joists.

I am interested in exploring setting a pair of B&W 602 cabinets in soffits for reference use in the studio while I am still working on design if it is advantageous for the model. The manual from B&W is pretty basic and has no mention of soffit placement, rather focusing on stand positioning. These are passive and have no integrated means of attenuating bass frequencies aside from applying an insert to the port. I have been unable to turn up any threads here involving the 602s.

- Does anyone have experience with successful soffit use of the B&W 602?
- Would soffit placement be beneficial for the 602s over the use of stands?
- If so were any external means needed to balance the bass response or was it unnecessary?

Please let me know if any additional information would be useful. I would appreciate any input on the topic when you have the opportunity and inclination.
Thank you,
BF

I'm closing on the house today. No one has any knowledge of soffit mounting B&W DM602s? If these cabinets are well suited for soffits or far from optimal for this use, the knowledge of eliminating soffits from the design would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
BF

they look like they could be soffit mounted. if they have a switchable bass adjustment that would be good, if not, barefoot has posted some crossover designs to adjust bass compensation.

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Glenn

I recently did measurements in a major studio over here where we soffited B&W 801 speakers.
Worked out great. In first instance the producers involved thought these speakers should be free standing, but some measurements and listening tests convinced 'm to soffit the things.
Just take care of unwanted reflections from the mid/high units, but with 602 this is prolly less cumbersome.

Thank you for the input, feedback from another venue had me questioning the idea. The cabinets do not have built in bass adjustment, so crossover after the fact may be needed depending on how they test in the enclosures. I have realized that my timeline on the house was unrealistic (3 days of laying tile will eat your soul) which pushed back working on the studio a bit. This should give me more time to refine thoughts before tossing them out here and that is a good thing. Once I get proper dimensions on the space I should be able to post design ideas / questions.
BF

The 602 is an amazing speaker for the price. They translate better than most speakers twice the price. I would look at getting a White Passive EQ rather than building a soffit filter or bi-amping.

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www.kitchel.net

Thank you Kevin. Are there any specific White models you would recommend for this application?

And by "Passive" are you referring to the filters themselves or the entire unit... i.e. a strictly passive unit like the 4320, or a L-C active design like the 4400, 4200, or 4200A where the device is powered?

Thanks
BF

I mean the passive filters, the units still need power.

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www.kitchel.net

Ok because White made totally passive units as well which were cut only. They seem to be a bit more rare and pricey. But you think a 1/3 octave L-C active would be preferred, or would it be worth looking for a 1/6th octave unit?

Thanks again
BF

Picked up a pair of White Instruments 4400 1/3 octave L-C active units. I will come back with more info once the build is done and they are in place.

Thanks Kevin.