John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Thanks John,
you were up early this morning.



Well..because I was un-sure what the door would look like. I have build and fixed the longest part of the wall(to the left of the door) but I left the smaller section (right side) un-attached. built but not dyna bolted. So the gap can be as tight or lose as I want. +/- 20mm or so.

you can see it lying down in this pic.

But, I'm assuming your answer is no 203, just a tight fit then, caulk caulk caulk?

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

yes -

Sweet thanks.
I'll have camera over the weekend- Then I'll go back to question 5.

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

Hi Lil,
My doors are the regular hinged type, but... I put up the gyprock over the door opening first, then cut the unwanted gyprock around the opening with a saw. This allows for a single sheet of gyprock with no joins above the door etc. Same for windows.
Then added the maple door frame. Of course my door opening wasn't perfectly straight or plumb so needed packing with thin wooden wedges (made just with pine on the drop-saw) at a few points around the door frame - the frame temporarily nailed at a few points till the wedges were right, then nailed properly (and that was the same for windows too). Any gaps between door opening and the door frame I stuffed well with rockwool and put acoustic caulk over that. That will be covered by a maple "architrave" - when I get around to it Hope that helps some,
Geoff

Yeah thanks, thats great.
But , this door is 150mm (5.9in) in wide but my studs are 120mm (4.7in) so I want be able to plasterboard over the frame. Will just have to get it as close and square as possible.

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

You could also put the frame centered (widewise?) so its 15mm on each side. The frame itself will serve as a molding.
But obviously try it first before nailing it to see how it looks

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mmm, will do.

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

On a different note-
Can I go with six dec side slat walls? or slightly increase it to 9ish.

And, In scott's studio( johns studio pages) it look like he builds his soffits and slat walls over the laminated flooring? Is that right, or should I cut back the flooring and build directly on the slab.

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

Deanne - what are the dimensions of your sliding door??

Yes - build directly on to the concrete and add the laminate floor as the last thing - you then don't need flooring under the riser etc or under the speaker frames etc.

I got the smallest door I could get. There would be anything but ppl and guitars coming in and out.
1500wx 2200h
I measured the opening last night 680mm

Tight but, with the angled slat wall and riser thats the best I could do.

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

Lil, looking at that diagram, it seems that your "head" position is at about 50% of the room depth Your ears are going to be in every possible odd-order null and even-order peak known to man! I'd strongly suggest that you change your speaker angles to more like 90 degrees (instead of 60) in order to get your head closer to the front, and away from the dreaded 50% position, which is almost exactly where you are right now. If you go with a 90° speaker axis intersect angle, then you should also splay your walls more. 9° should work. That's what I'm using.

It looks like you have pretty much the same problem I do: room geometry prevents you form using 60 degree axis intersection for your speakers while still keeping them far enough apart to get a decent image and also getting your head close the "holy grail" 38% mark.

I checked this with John a long time back, when I ran into my geometry issue, and he suggested the 90° angle, which is what I did. The geometry works MUCH better for me now. My speakers are far enough apart for a decent sound stage, and my head is in a much better location, around 40% of the room.

- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.

something like this Deanne?

Stuart- ah I knew I'd forgoten something.. the 38% line. thanks

90 doesn't look much better though at that 38% point?


Thanks John, the glass door is in a different spot. But I get the idea,

Is there any problem with cut off the slat wall short, to allow the door to be part of the rectangle frame?
Bit like this-

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info

It shouldn't be a problem as it's past your listening position.

Well, yeah, but you moved the speakers way over into the corners, by the looks of it! At least, your 90° lines go through the room corners, while the 60° lines go through the ends of that "T" shape line at the front. If you slide your 90° lines forward so that they also go through the ends of the "T", then your head should be much further forward. In fact, you might not even need to slide the 90° lines forward that far. You might hit 38% before you get there, which is good because it means your speakers are further apart. And of course, don't forget that 38% isn't written in stone! Just a guideline...

- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.