John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Hey Steve,

Combination of both screws and nails unfortunately. The main supports of the framing I used nails. I feel more comfortable with nails supporting the weight than a few screws, but I did a lot of screwing too. Including my middle finger a couple weeks ago, and my thumb over the weekend. That phillips head on a drill puncturing your hand doesn't feel good...

The subfloor will be screwed down. No nails there.

The low voltage wiring are on the other side. Imagine sitting at the console. The electrical conduit on your left, the low voltage on your right. No parallel runs on it. I'll post a drawing of the floor framing sometime today.

Boy did I loose some head room or what when I leveled this floor. Currently where the beam is, from the top of frame to the bottom of the beam, it's 82". And I still have 2 layers of 3/4" subfloor and hardwood floor to go. Then frame around the beam to cover it up. I guess I'll have to put up a head bumber for those tall clients.

Thanks Steve,

Aaron

Here's the floor framing w/ conduits...

I don't know how John pasted the pic from Adobe, so I'll have to attach the pdf file again.

Hmmm..BTW,

Any other ideas on the insulation in the walls to keep it from falling back? I saw you posted the tie wrap idea. Would a sheet of plastic on the back side help (at least along the block side)??

The plastic might work, but I'd be concerned that it either stretch or tear out over time. Maybe some 1x3 "stringers" horizontally every 24", screwed to the steel studs on the back side?

That just gave me an idea. Maybe I could use this hat channel that someone gave me. Just run it along the backside, screwed in. That should hold it. I think I've found my solution, and use of free materials. Thanks.

Well, I just went and picked up the insulation for the floor. My goal is to get all these supports fastened w/ the Liquid Nails, finish the conduits, finish the last few stringers and supports, insulate and cover w/ the subfloor. Hope to have this all done by the end of the weekend.

Then it's on to the framing of walls!!! And I'll have lot's more questions to ask.


Thanks again,

Aaron

Hey Steve,

I was just reading the OC thread, and the posts you have there. If the insulation is to touch the wall slightly to dampen, how do I do this w/ 3 5/8" steel studs w/ rc1 on it? And should I still use the 3" Roxul, or jump up to a 4"?

Hmmm...

Thanks,

Aaron

If your roxul is the right weight (2.5 to 3 pcf) I would just get some R-ll fluffy stuff and add a half-wide strip of it vertically between each stud, so that it is compressed by the wallboard somewhat. If you use a wavy bead of construction adhesive behind the strip of fluffy insulation, it will stick to the backing enough to hold it in place. If your RC is already in place you can just cut squares and stick them in place.

If those studs are 25 gauge, you wouldn't even need the RC... Steve

They are 20 guage studs. Already bought 'em a few months ago. Plus I got a bunch for free.

Hmm...what about adding a layer of maybe 1" 703? Remeber, the back side of the studs are exposed (no drywall), so it won't compress too much.

I forgot about nothing being on the back side of those studs - you won't need any RC even with the heavier gauge studs since there's no wallboard on the other side.

You'll probably have to play it by ear as to how much insulation you use - keep in mind that the purpose of slightly overstuffing is to get the insulation to snugly touch the wallboard where it's not supported by studs - this is so the insulation will absorb some of the wall vibration and dampen the resonance. It helps lessen transmission through the wall.

However, if you were to cram insulation in between walls with a jackhammer, then you would INCREASE transmission. What you want is just a medium-firm contact between the insulation and the wallboard.

If you have a dishwasher, look under the counter at the outside of the washing chamber - odds are, you'll see some little strips of stick-on foam weatherstripping - that's all these are for, is to dampen the vibrations of the outer wall of the dishwasher to quiet it down. Same idea... Steve

Are you sure about the RC? I'd rather put it on. Plus it'll help hold the insulation in until the drywall goes up. And the area of double wall (between CR and tracking room), one of those needs RC anyway. I was intending on putting RC on all the walls around the control room. The other rooms (where it's double walled) just slap up against the studs.

Any problems here?

Thanks.

No problems, just not necessary from an acoustical standpoint, other than to combat flanking if that hasn't been addressed another way.

Walls need one of their two leaves fairly rigid for best low freq TL, but if that's taken care of by the other leaf no problem. You don't want RC on BOTH sides of the same frame though.

For a single sided wall (paneling on only one side of the frame) RC's only function would be to keep flanking noise from passing through the framing into the wallboard. If the wall frame is already isolated from structure then it's not necessary, but won't hurt anything... Steve

Great.

Here's one of the latest pix of the floor (taken Sunday night). A friend stopped by w/ a digital camera, but hasn't sent me the rest of the pix yet, so I'll post them as I get them.

I expect the subfloor will start going on by Thursday or Friday if all goes well.

Yikes! Just called to get an update on prices for 703. Prices have sky rocketed for that stuff. At least the Roxul is still affordable. Out of curiosity, I was talking w/ an insulation wholesaler here in Nashville, and he was saying that 706 was a better insulation board than the 703 and for a wider range of frequencies. Any truth to this??? Anyone know?

Apparently the 706 is what is being used for making the cloth covered acoustical panels. I guess several studios here locally as well as the Hall of Fame, etc.

Hmmm...

hope you don't mind if I jump in on this one...is taking R-19 (6 1/4") and putting it in between 2x4's going to be too much 'cramming'? It seems there is no happy medium because my other option is R-13, which of course is only 3.5"

6 1/2" insulation is too much. What type of insulation are you using or have available?

By compressing the insulation that much, it will make things worse than better. Steve can give more details on this.

I will be using the 3" Roxul AFB in my walls when it's time. I'm also using it in the floating floor (which hopefully I'll be installing some tonight and tomorrow).

Aaron