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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:58 am 
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Location: Rainforest in SE-Asia, original from Europe :)
Is a double door enough with air between? See many custom made doors, so I am wondering what is better...
See in some drawings that some builders using glass sliding doors, think to use a standard wooden door with glass inside, but then double...

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Building a new studio of 100 m2 with 3 studios
my wife don't mind, one of the studios wil be her private working studio...
control room will be my domain :yahoo:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 12:34 pm 
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Location: Santiago de Chile
Well, glass is a lot more expensive

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:16 pm 
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If you have a few hours and the stomach for reading:
The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 1: Door Blanks. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark
and
The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 2: Door seals. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark

Neither article addresses your question specifically but more gets to the nuts and bolts of what door, seals and thresholds can do to improve any situation.

Having this kind of information can only help you if you do make a back to back type door, or any studio related door area for that matter.


Good luck.

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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Location: Rainforest in SE-Asia, original from Europe :)
xSpace wrote:
Wow that is very interesting information :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: thx :mrgreen:

jbassino wrote:
Well, glass is a lot more expensive

Problem is that I need glass, have to see or someone is outside the CR waiting to come in... we will have an electronic lock on the CR and studios... have to use this to prevent that someone walks suddenly in the studio during a session... Need also a double door with glass between studio 1 and studio 2.... studio 1 has a grand piano and studio 2 can function as drum booth... we record lot of stuff with synergy and record the entire band on the same time... doors has to be opened when we record bigger groups...

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Building a new studio of 100 m2 with 3 studios
my wife don't mind, one of the studios wil be her private working studio...
control room will be my domain :yahoo:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:13 pm 
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Location: Southeast US - NC
Been awhile since I was here, but wanna throw a coupla' bits and pieces on the fire...

Door closer's and mag seals are a bit tricky. Here in the states, if you are building a studio that ends up being a commercially rated building, you have to deal with ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) which gets to be pretty anal about the amount of pressure it takes to break the seal and open the door.

Rod is advising me to use a "standard" deadbolt and grab bar handles.

I inquired; "So for all of the interior doors, I only need to be concerned about a deadbolt and handles?"

In my build thread over at R.O., http://www.recording.org/ftopic-21631-810.html Rod states;
Quote:
yes - outside coming in - which puts the person in the room always in control of the lock using the thumb latch..........

That also allows you to lock people out of areas they are not paying to use -

Rod


While it would be my preference to use magnetic seals, IMHO, dealing with ADA just ain't worth the hassle. And... for anyone building here in the states, I would recommend you consider this issue if your studio is detached, or at some point could be considered a "commercial" structure.

I'll also mention that doing a studio build and taking ADA into consideration is not really so bad, and actually a pretty good idea... In that, if you, as a studio owner, should ever be confined to a wheelchair, crutches, a walker or similar situation; whether permanent or temporarily, you'll be happy you did so... besides, most muso's (myself included) aren't exactly known for being all that graceful.

Back to the door hinge issue....

I noticed a coupla' folks mentioned the EHD ball bearing hinges...

I am using 4 - Stanley FBB168 EHD sealed ball bearing hinges, per door.
http://stanley-hardware.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=cht_highfreq.htm&LEFT=left_cht_highfreq.htm

I found a coupla' dealers who sell on eBay, and snagged em' for about $4/ea, in a lot purchase.

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Studio Build Insanity: DM Mobile/Dark Pines Studios
(A Rod Gervais Designed Room)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:23 am 
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Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
The doors of Perception by Aldous Huxley,
would have used Jim Morrison and his band,
but they decided to check out early.
.
Sorry, bit of a silly comment.
.
I live in the UK, and am on a tight budget.
Found some 30" 45mm solid core doors for £75.95 inc VAT.
Which can also be cut down to make smaller.
http://www.doordeals.co.uk/eMerchantPro/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=145&idproduct=741
.
The same shop sells interior and exterior door frames too for good prices too.
.
:-)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:52 am 
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
I read through some of this briefly but what do you think of this setup?

When I am finished I am going to have a small live room (18x16x9) and want to connect it to my small control room (18x10x9) with a door with a window in it. It's the best way for me to conserve wall space and create an easy route from one room to the other.

I found a cheap door on craigslist (36"x80"). It's a insulated steel door with a huge opening for a window to be installed. What do you think?

What's the best way to go about this. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:37 pm 
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statictrash wrote:
I read through some of this briefly but what do you think of this setup?

When I am finished I am going to have a small live room (18x16x9) and want to connect it to my small control room (18x10x9) with a door with a window in it. It's the best way for me to conserve wall space and create an easy route from one room to the other.

I found a cheap door on craigslist (36"x80"). It's a insulated steel door with a huge opening for a window to be installed. What do you think?

What's the best way to go about this. Thank you.



It is better than nothing. But a solid core fire rated door would be very beneficial to your isolation critical between tracking and monitoring rooms.

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:29 am 
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Excuse me, I am looking at your picture, and am goint go to the same kind of doors.
How big sound isolation have you now?
What are those doors layers you draw on the sketchup made from? And how thin they are?

thank you


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:36 pm 
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Location: Santiago de Chile
I got good isolation with mine (a modified ro's design)
The important part here is the seals rather than your door. You can have a 60stc rating dor but if your seals suck, it isnt worth

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:21 pm 
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Yes, OK, thank you but what are those layers made from and what is this yellow in the lower part of the door at the picture?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:23 pm 
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Read the post carefully and you'll find out :D (if you mean about Ro's door)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:23 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
I'd say, start with them stickies (oh, wait.. this IS a sticky. :mrgreen:)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:24 pm 
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Location: Greece
Hi guys!

Very nice threat!! :yahoo:

I am about to replace a faulty door in my studio.

The idea is to screw 2 mdf boards 3cm x 2 for a total of 6cm solid mdf door.

I have left some epdm rubber sheets 2,5mm weight 5kg/m2.

Is it a good idea to place one or two layers of this between the two mdf layers?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:52 am 
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Yiannis wrote:
I have left some epdm rubber sheets 2,5mm weight 5kg/m2.
Is it a good idea to place one or two layers of this between the two mdf layers?

That's about 2000kg/m3 about 3 times the weight of MDF... seems like a good plan.


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