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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:12 am 
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Location: Coppell, TX (DFW Area)
Howdy all,
Last night I put together the first two panels for my bedroom studio based on Ethan's design for Mid-bass panels. One panel is 4/8 with 2" OC 703 in it and will be mounted on a wall. The second panel is 4x8 with 4" of OC 705 and will bridge a corner for bass trapping. Just wilt the two panels in the room there is a noticable positive difference in the "sound" of the room. I can't wait to get the rest of them done and installedn I took a bunch of photos so I thought I'd share for those like me who get a lot more from a photo. Choosing only 6 photos to tell the story was challenging.

Parts for one mid-bass panel:

(3) 1x4x8' Pine boards $ 5.96 (Home Depot)
(2) 2'x4'x2" Pwens Corning 703 panels $ 27.70 (SPI Dallas)
~3yds of tan burlap @$1.48/yd $ 4.44 (walmart)
small pieces of 2x2 wood $ 0.00 (found in garage)
Staples, nails and screws $ 0.00 (also found in garage)

Total cost for mid bass panel $38.10
Total cost for corner bass trap panel (4 panels of OC705) $ 111.12

The only real difference between the thick & thin panels is the thich panel has two layers (4") of 705. Therefore the 2x2 blocks are not needed. Instead, I streched a couple of strips of burlap across the back to keep the pieces from falling out the back side.

Each frame took me about 30 minutes to complete. I used a hammer, hand saw, drill and a staple gun for tools.

Photo 1 - The competed frame with the fiber panels inside. I actually just laid the 8 foot sections against the two pieces and trimmed the ends to fit and nailed them on with some finishing nails. I'll probably use screws for the next panels.

Photo 2 - After the frame was finished I attached the 2x2 blocks to keep the fiber from falling out the back. I used screws for this.

Photo 3 - Here is the frams with all the 2x2 blocks installed.

Photo 4 - After the blocks were installed, I turned the frame over to install the burlap.

Photo 5 - Stapeling the burlap. The burlap came folded in half on a bolt. It was exactly wide enough to stretch around the frame width without trimming. The only cutting was the length.

Photo 6 - Here is the corner panel in the studio. I have 9 foot high ceilings. The panel is simply resting on the floor bridging the corner. The midbass panels will be hung on the walls around the room and possibly a couple from the ceiling.

Enjoy :lol: ...db


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 Post subject: Looks great!
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2003 9:49 pm
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Location: Mansfield, Texas
Looks like a winner to me!
Nice to hear from a fellow North Texan!
Looks likeSPI Dallas is on my list of places to shop. I hear there is a place called Insulation Supply or General Insulation that also has good prices.

Keep up the Pics!

Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 2:10 am 
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Nice work!

Question; does it make any sense to have a back, plywood or hoasote, on corner bass traps?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:09 am 
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> does it make any sense to have a back, plywood or hoasote, on corner bass traps? <

You do not want a rigid back because that will reflect the waves and negate the benefit of an air space. Homasote is pretty flimsy, so that might be okay.

--Ethan

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:37 am 
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Nice absorbers, Nice photos. Thanks for sharing!

Andre


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:43 pm 
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Location: Shakopee, MN, USA
Thank you good sir, thats my next project and I will use your tutorial for sure!

Fill


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 1:37 pm 
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is there any concern about the fibers due to the open back design?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:26 am 
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From the REFERENCE section, linked in the top thread in every forum -

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1742

If you're still concerned, lightly vacuum the backs of your DIY absorbers and cover with cloth... Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:14 am 
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Thanks. I missed that reference link.

Sorry.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 3:53 am 
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SURELY THESE PANELS WILL HELP A LOT.
MY QUESTION IS IF IT WILL WORK ON THE THOROUGH LOW/MID BAND, OR IF IT IS DESIGNED TO WORK ON A SPECIFC FREQUENCY, SAY 200Hz OR WHATEVER?

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Last edited by P750souza on Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 8:21 am 
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Souza, welcome; first, can you please turn off the CAPS lock on your keyboard? That's considere YELLING, and on some boards you will get treated really badly for doing that :cry:

The type absorbers shown in the pictures (and the location they were used at, a corner) are considered "broadband" absorbers - meaning that they will absorb EVERYTHING in a wide frequency range. Placed across a corner like that, they will work down to around 200 hZ, probably even a bit lower. They are NOT tuned to a specific frequency... Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:05 pm 
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This is an awesome how-to, and we should be very thankful to db for posting it!! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 4:38 pm 
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Great,

So it means an easy-usefull-effective way...
Great, GREAT! :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:47 am 
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Location: Coppell, TX (DFW Area)
I'm flattered that this post became a sticky. Just to be clear... (maybe I can find a few minutes to make a drawing). The panel shown being constructed in the photos has only one layer of 2" OC 703 with a 2" air gap between it and the wall it's mounted on. (I have hung them like big pictures). This panel is meant be a broadband absorber and I intend to have them hung on the flat walls of my 11' x 11' bedroom studio.

I cannot modify or tear up the bedroom walls as I intend to sell this house and I'm quite sure the new owner will probably want to use the room as a bedroom again so the panels are removable and I'll take them with me and probably incorporate them into my next studio.

The second panel I made the night I made the photos has two layers of 2" OC 705 which is actually about a half an inch thicker than the 2" wood frame. I covered the front with burlap in the same manner but I made three strips of burlap about a foot wide and stapled them across the back to hold the fiberglass in the frames. This is the panel you see in the corner and is intended to work as a broadband bass trap.

I intend to make several more panels. Three of them will be bass traps like the one in the corner but I will use faced 705 for the top layer (facing on the room facing side) Two of these will go in two of the three remaining corners (unfortunately the door into the room is in one of the corners), and the third will bridge the ceiling/wall corner above the wall you see in the photo.

All the rest of the panels will be the single layer 703 type and will be hung on the walls. One horizontally behind the speakers, two vertically on the back wall, one on the left wall and one on the right wall.

The screws I used were "Grip Rite" Trim Head Square Drive screws. Once you use Square drive screws you won't go back to Phillips Head.

I hope that covers it....

.db

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:58 am 
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dbyboth wrote:
The screws I used were "Grip Rite" Trim Head Square Drive screws. Once you use Square drive screws you won't go back to Phillips Head

Amen, brother! 8) I second that! :mrgreen:


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