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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2021 6:35 pm 
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Location: Melbourne Australia
So, with one sliding door at 6.38mm lam and the other at 10.38 lam, if I had 100mm between the glazing, I'd still have both door frames connected to the same single wall. Is it possible, or even worth the trouble, to attempt to decouple the second sliding door by inserting a rubber barrier strip all the way around (including under) it? Obviously needs to be high density rubber, but it should still stop vibration passing from one door system from the other, no? Is silicone the way to attach the rubber to the wooden frames around the "decoupled" sliding door?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2021 1:04 am 
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Location: Old Tappan, NJ USA
if you have a double wall (meaning separate frames, etc) then you'd put one door on each wall and in between the inner jamb edges, you would put in some semi-rigid fiberglass and cover with cloth. this gives a finished look and the insulation does not couple the two sides. if you only have a single frame wall with drywall on each side, then just go with the single door.

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2021 4:00 am 
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gullfo wrote:
if you have a double wall (meaning separate frames, etc) then you'd put one door on each wall and in between the inner jamb edges, you would put in some semi-rigid fiberglass and cover with cloth. this gives a finished look and the insulation does not couple the two sides. if you only have a single frame wall with drywall on each side, then just go with the single door.


Well, actually, the sliding door is part of a 3 panelled glazed wall, so I want a secondary glazed wall / sliding door on the inside to improve T/L by around 10dB...


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2021 9:23 pm 
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ok, so add the additional glazed wall - decoupled from the existing one and put the second door in that. with the air gap now between the glass walls, you'll want to consider some absorption and damping - i'd find a way to put the absorption up high (like a near-ceiling "band" between the walls) so you're not obscuring the view but the cloth wrapped insulation is touching both walls. also some UV protection applique sheets (if not already incorporated) can help with the damping aspects.

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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2021 12:37 am 
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gullfo wrote:
ok, so add the additional glazed wall - decoupled from the existing one and put the second door in that. with the air gap now between the glass walls, you'll want to consider some absorption and damping - i'd find a way to put the absorption up high (like a near-ceiling "band" between the walls) so you're not obscuring the view but the cloth wrapped insulation is touching both walls. also some UV protection applique sheets (if not already incorporated) can help with the damping aspects.



How would you decouple the glazed wall?


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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 2:01 am 
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depends. how are things already constructed with the existing wall? is the interior space already decoupled form the rest of the building except the floor? or it is fully attached to the "exterior" space - meaning walls, ceiling, etc? if the latter, then you're already experiencing the maximum structural transfer into the interior space, so adding the new wall will only seek to increase any direct sound penetration via the windows. in which case, then just attach the new wall same as the existing one. you'll still have the structural transfer but the direct penetration should be less with the addition of the new mass and air gap. you'll still want to damp the interior of the space to reduce/eliminate resonances there.

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