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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2019 7:53 pm 
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When I try to open your file, REW tells me that it is not a .mdat file...I use the latest version of REW. Can you re-safe your file? Also, it is it possible to ge the .skp file? It would be more easy to valuate if you can measure the distances to the mic, etc.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 6:40 am 
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The mdat opened fine on my REW.

It looks crazy and scary just the way it should!

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:34 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon, USA
Quote:
When I try to open your file, REW tells me that it is not a .mdat file...I use the latest version of REW. Can you re-safe your file? Also, it is it possible to get the .skp file? It would be more easy to valuate if you can measure the distances to the mic, etc.

TomessAI, the mic was precisely 77" away from the speakers, 47 3/8" high, pointing straight forward at 60 degrees. Looks like Gregwor got it loaded OK. Thanks for your efforts! :)
Quote:
The mdat opened fine on my REW. It looks crazy and scary just the way it should!

Ha Ha! Thanks Greg. I am spending all the time I can on building the rear bass trap until I go back to work on 1/2/2020. Bought the lumber and began cutting the pieces today. Got birch skins on the way. Man! This is going to be VERY HEAVY! :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 10:03 pm 
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Guit-picker wrote:
Quote:
When I try to open your file, REW tells me that it is not a .mdat file...I use the latest version of REW. Can you re-safe your file? Also, it is it possible to get the .skp file? It would be more easy to valuate if you can measure the distances to the mic, etc.

TomessAI, the mic was precisely 77" away from the speakers, 47 3/8" high, pointing straight forward at 60 degrees. Looks like Gregwor got it loaded OK. Thanks for your efforts! :)
Quote:
The mdat opened fine on my REW. It looks crazy and scary just the way it should!

Ha Ha! Thanks Greg. I am spending all the time I can on building the rear bass trap until I go back to work on 1/2/2020. Bought the lumber and began cutting the pieces today. Got birch skins on the way. Man! This is going to be VERY HEAVY! :wink:


Mhh, that's really strange...I tried to re-download, but same result. To be precise, I'm using REW 5.19, not the newsest beta version. Maybe you can post some pictures of the measurement? I'm curious...

Another question: I'm in the process of copying your speaker mounting system :lol: , and I was asking myself if you really need those two sorbothane hemispheres on the side of the speaker. The reason I'm asking is because I'm located in Germany, and it is really expensive to get those sorbothane hemispheres delivered from the states. And I'm planning for surround, so I have three more speakers and a subwoofer to isolate from the framing...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:07 am 
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To soffit mount you don't aim to isolate the speaker from the framing. The framing becomes and extension of the speaker box which is held tight in a box within the framing.

Attachment:
speaker mount.JPG


cheers
john


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2019 10:05 am 
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Tomess, Stuart's recommended way of isolating the speaker from the framing does require sorbathane on all four sides, but as John said, he doesn't isolate the speakers from the framing at all. Just make the framing really solid and keep the speakers held tightly in the frame.

Someone posted an interview with some well known studio designers (I can't remember now who it was though) and they both agreed that isolating/"floating" speakers is completely unnecessary.

Dan

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2019 9:33 pm 
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Thank you both, John and Wakka, for your input. I'll re-draw my sketchup...again. :mrgreen: I think I'll start my own post here in the forum. I've already have a thread in Stuarts new forum, but he seems to be a busy guy and has not time to go into some details I'm still struggeling with (Stuart, if you read this, no hard feelings, you've helped me a lot! :wink: )


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:39 am 
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Quote:
Tomess, Stuart's recommended way of isolating the speaker from the framing does require sorbathane on all four sides, but as John said, he doesn't isolate the speakers from the framing at all. Just make the framing really solid and keep the speakers held tightly in the frame.

Someone posted an interview with some well known studio designers (I can't remember now who it was though) and they both agreed that isolating/"floating" speakers is completely unnecessary.

Wow! I wish I would have seen this discussion a couple of years ago. I guess I missed that one! :o

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 12:12 pm 
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I am busy making good progress on building the rear bass trap (all 700 pounds of it), but I have one question:
I am planning on lining the inside walls, as well as ceiling and floor, with Roxul Safe-n-Sound (3"). Is it necessary to fill the ENTIRE cavity with Roxul (kind of like super-chunk style)? I hope not.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:30 pm 
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I am busy making good progress on building the rear bass trap (all 700 pounds of it), but I have one question:
I am planning on lining the inside walls, as well as ceiling and floor, with Roxul Safe-n-Sound (3"). Is it necessary to fill the ENTIRE cavity with Roxul (kind of like super-chunk style)? I hope not.

This is a hot topic for debate. My understanding of Helmholz devices is to line the walls with say 2" of insulation, then use a very light pretty thin layer of insulation along the backsides of the slots.

If you check out the pdf I've attached, it states that over filling the cavity will hinder the performance. Hopefully some people chime in here and shed some light on the topic.

Greg


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 5:03 am 
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Thanks Greg,
What do you mean by "light pretty thin layer of insulation"? Can you give an example?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 8:47 am 
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What do you mean by "light pretty thin layer of insulation"? Can you give an example?

For example, take a batt of pink fluffy and rip off a 1 cm layer of it.

Greg

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 12:54 am 
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Thanks Greg, I can easily do that. I will post some pictures soon on the bass trap progress. I've been busy every night after work cutting, painting, veneering (birch) and now applying finish to a whole bunch of lumber. :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2020 11:26 am 
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Guit-picker wrote:
I am busy making good progress on building the rear bass trap (all 700 pounds of it), but I have one question:
I am planning on lining the inside walls, as well as ceiling and floor, with Roxul Safe-n-Sound (3"). Is it necessary to fill the ENTIRE cavity with Roxul (kind of like super-chunk style)? I hope not.


Erics Super Chunk was designed and tested using owens corning 703, a ridgid insulation. Your results would be completely different. But to your point, fill the cavity but do not "cram" the insulation in and it will be more effective at the lf you are aiming at.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2020 7:01 pm 
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Brien, to confirm, you're saying that for a Helmholz device he should completely fill the cavity?

Greg

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