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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 10:46 pm 
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Steve,

I think you have a great natural talent for this - and that is the kind of feedback we always want to hear.......... :D :D :D

Rod

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 5:32 am 
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Hey Rod - "I think you have a great natural talent for this " -

Yeah, kind of like the "overnight success" that's only practiced his/her instrument and studied for 1/3 of their life-span... :roll:

Still, I've always been a "troubleshooter" of sorts - the main thing I found to be different when getting into acoustics after years in the electronics field wasn't so much a change in mindset, as it was a change in "rules of logic" - the more familiar I get with the correct set of rules, the easier it is to apply them to a given situation.

The main difficulty I find in doing this by "remote control", is the LACK of control - it's difficult to get people to give adequate info to solve a problem, when if they KNEW enough to include all the right information they wouldn't NEED us.

Case in point - more often than not, when people new to the acoustics field give me room dimensions, at least 9 times out of 10 they only mention TWO. I can always tell when someone's done a fair amount of research before asking questions - it takes at least 4 less posts to get to a point where I can answer their original questions with some degree of confidence...

Being in the field of industrial instrumentation, I get into a pretty varied range of technical fields, one of which is high vacuum arc melting - we have a saying about vacuum that could easily be stolen for Acoustics/sound proofing - "We Strive For Nothing" :wink:

Gotta run for now, several questions left and I'm trying to finish up my small network redo; one DSL modem, one router/firewall, one switched hub, one print server, 3 printers, scanner, card reader, 2 XP machines and one 98se machine (so far) - almost there... Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 5:50 am 
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Carl, at the risk of frustrating your efforts even more -

You've GOT to be KIDDING with that floor plan, right?

Seriously, the shapes are fine, but having to go through FOUR DOORS to get stuff into the main tracking room, and only ONE of those is double wide?

Don't take offense at my comments, please - We've ALL been there, changing, moving, re-drawing, etc, finally hitting on the "perfect" setup, only to discover that we forgot to leave room for speakers, or a mic locker, etc -

I would feel really bad if I let you build this plan without pointing these things out, especially if you're going to do ANY commercial work. It might be OK for a one-person, private project studio, but NOT for a working, for-hire facility.

If I'm missing some bit of information here, please let me know - I REALLY want you to be happy with your results... Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 6:01 am 
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John did the layout for me, all I have change is added the mic locker on to the right side of the sound lock. Believe me, if I had the room I would have seperate access to it from were the office is currently.

I have taped it out on the floor in the room and my parter and I are comfortable with it. THe double door are the entry to the space so I can not change them. I am thinking of making the doors into the rooms 4 foot.

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Carl Fuehrer
Pulsar Audio Lab
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Last edited by cfuehrer on Sat Oct 18, 2003 6:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 6:34 am 
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Personally,

I would mirror the design top to bottom, and then live with the 2nd iso booth being a airlock entry/lobby.

That way the entry with the double doors would lead almost directly to the live room.

Just one man's opinion..............

Rod

(flipping the layout would be easy - no need to even redraw the plans..... we used to build mirrored buildings all the time with just the original drawings - although - maybe being dyslexic helped a wee bit as well...........)

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 6:41 am 
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I had it that way originally. The line one bellow is my original idea I sent to John and the color image is John's design. Part of the problem is the damn pillar that's located in the sound lock. Wish I didn't have to deal with it.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Carl Fuehrer
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 7:42 am 
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Man, turn yer back for 15 minutes and they write a book... :evil: ... Oh well - Carl, that black thing is a pillar? Crap... Well, if you're comfy with your tape "walk-thru", that's the main thing for now. Widening the doors would probably be a good thing. I put 4 foot doors in my first studio, and it was probably the ONLY smart thing I did.

As tied up as things are getting for me, I'd appreciate it if you could review a couple of the threads here (mainly the "complete section" one, and lay out what YOU think each wall section should be - then I can hopefully get caught up and make suggestions for any CHANGES, and why - the board is getting too popular for me to have enough time to do everything from scratch on a case-by-case basis, sorry... Steve

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Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 9:19 am 
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knightfly wrote:
lay out what YOU think each wall section should be


What do you mean? Like how I figured to create the walls? If that's it I was going to make them:

2x4 metal stud with rockwool > vinyl barrier (still looking for something cheaper but just as good as the Auralexpesive Sheet Block) > Philips/Dietrich RC-1 > 5/8" Firecheck Sheetrock > Homasote > 1/2" sheetrock > primer and paint.

Floors (concrete base): neopren pucks w/ wood 2x6 and rockwool > vinyl barrier > 3/4' T&G OSB > 5/8" MDF > flooring (maple in live room, carpet in vocal booth, carpet and laminate flooring in control room)

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Carl Fuehrer
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 1:55 pm 
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Here I go adding to your confusion. I used in a previous design (1998) 1/8" Neoprene Sheet rubber in place of the Auralex Vinyl.

I Personally think that if you just triple layer your control room/live room walls with Drywall you will just fine. I did that for my spot and am Quite happy with the sound deadening I have achieved.

Bryan Giles

Another Alternative is GAF Tri-Ply Roofing Roll. it is 37.00 a roll (40" x 30' long) Just as effective if you ask me. :)

Finally I know someone has had to told you this or you read it elsewhere. That vinyl sheet needs to be placed between sheets of drywall to be most effective. On the floor and on the walls


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 11:31 pm 
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giles117 wrote:
GAF Tri-Ply Roofing Roll. it is 37.00 a roll (40" x 30' long)


Yeah, I saw that on a back post and found some local vendors. But I can't find any good specs for it to know which type to buy. What are you using? All the Tri-Ply I saw listed was some asphalt thing. If I know what model number or thickness to get I would go that way. Or at least I can cover the existing walls with it to isolate the shell from my rooms I am building since some of my neighbor there are loud musicians too!

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Carl Fuehrer
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 2:25 am 
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Hmm didn't realize there were multiple brands. I Used the rolls that Home Depot Carries.

The Product is about 1/8 to 1/4" Thick. Wish I knew a model number . Don't remember there being one on the package. Just Tri-Ply was all that was listed. and the price being about $37.00 a roll.

Has a smooth surface on one side and a honeycomb like surface on the other side.

Bryan Giles


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 6:25 am 
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Here's the only spec sheet I could find, check out page 2:
http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/50034.pdf

What is the stock number for Home Depot, I will run out and get some from there ASAP!!!

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Carl Fuehrer
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 11:32 pm 
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Carl, you are making it tuff on me. The stuff I used is on a roll. It is not felt, it actually looks like rubber. The physical description I gave you is the best I can do. Here is a pic of what it may look like on the surcafe.

<img src="http://www.johnlsayers.com/Studio/Images/Giles/LR_Floor_Mat.jpg" /img>

That is the smooth srface, like I said the other surface is kind of a raised checkered (think honeycomb) Surface.

It might be the #75. It is very heavy.

Bryan Giles

I'll Check it after church today and let you know what the part #, etc.. is


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 11:58 pm 
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Sorry to be tuff on you. I just want to make sure I get the right stuff. My local Home Depot didn't have it and the guy tried selling me some other tar membrane stuff. I will just go to the local vendors that I know carry it. Thanks so much for the help and pic, I'll print it and take it in to make sure it's the same stuff. Man, I want to get this place built!

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Carl Fuehrer
Pulsar Audio Lab
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 1:58 am 
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Carl, what's poppin. Had a Play to mix yesterday so I got in very late. Anyway the Correct stuff is GAF Tri-Ply TP4.

Bryan Giles


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